Teddy Talk: Creating, Collecting, Connecting

Thank you for the comments on the bears, I appreciate it Fossil Bears.

If I were to add it directly to the face again, I would do just what you said and firm the fabric up with glue or Mod Podge. You would just want to make sure that whatever you use will penetrate the fabric and not just lay on top. You would not want the nose to peel off. So maybe a couple of layers, starting with one that was diluted so it would sink down into the stuffing under the fabric.

I have used both, and they are very similar. I have used Apoxie Sculpt over an needle felted nose, and I can tell you it does not stick easily to felting. I know that people do put this material right on fabric, so if I were to do it again I would add it directly to the fabric. I think the best way may be to make the nose a separate piece and add a loop of wire to the back. Attach this to the muzzle with the wire and some glue under it to really hold it in place. You can then shape it if you need to right on the face.

He is really very wonderful.

I use Sulky too mixed in water to stabilize loose woven and stretchy fabric. It works well.

What a beautiful collection you have Debbie.

For me to color a large area I use an airbrush. The fur stays very soft. I do use Prismacolor markers on smaller areas, but I can feel them on the fur.

Garnet is not like sand. It is crushed rock, it is granules, larger than sand. It is about the same size as steel shot. I don't know how easy it is to get in the US, you would look at places that sell New Age products. I got mine from Singapore artist Wayne Lim. (Wayneston's Bears) He is a member here, I am sure he has a lot more info on garnet.

I also have steel shot that I bought from Sassy. I like that too, very much.

I use zinc coated bbs. I buy them at Walmart. I have done tests on them to see if they would discolor or rust. I have soaked them, let the dry then put them in a plastic bag for months, no rust, no color change. I have also done the same thing with crushed garnet. I have soaked them wrapped them wet in paper towel and put them in a plastic bag. I have left them for months to see if they discolored, they have not. The crushed garnet is good for mini bears, it is heavier than glass beads.

I do not put my bbs in a pouch. I mix them into the polyester and the soft pellets inside the body. I personally do not like the crunchy feeling that I get when they are all together in a pouch. I like not to feel them at all. They are large enough that they do not work their way out. I always put a layer of stuffing around the inside of the body, and then start adding the pellets, bbs, and the rest of the polyfill. Then I mush it all together.

I have all the patterns as they have changed over the years. I used to make major changes, and draft a whole new pattern. I keep them in an envelope with the bears name on it. Once I had it pretty much figured out, I just changed one or two pieces and take the old pieces out. I still do that. I usually change something with just about every bear I cut.
All of the faux fur I use has the woven back, but some of it is looser than others. I use Solvy, it is a water soluble stabilizer. If you follow the directions it tells you how to dissolve the sheet in water and then you can paint it on the back of the fabric. I have given the looser woven fabrics a couple of coats of this stuff letting the first dry and then doing another. It helps a lot with the give and the stretch.

Thank you for the comments on my bears and my blog. I am glad it could be of help to you.

I have done very little pattern testing over the years. I make the bear of fur. I take notes as to what I would like to change next bear. That has been the best way for me to work. Bears in the fur look very different from bears made of plain fabric.

Just recently I started using felt on the outside of the disks in the the arms and legs. I do it for just the same reason, I make softly stuffed bears. In the past I filled the area around the disk tightly with stuffing, and then I took stitches back and forth through the stuffing and fabric to keep it from shifting. I am finding it easier just to fold a piece of felt and work it around the disk after I tighten the joints. I still take a couple of stitches back and forth to keep it from shifting, but it is much faster and easier to firm up that area with the felt.

I use a white pastel pencil to mark dark fur.

I don't know how often Judi visits TT anymore. I did take a class from her and she was using Golden Brand Airbrush paint.

I do not know of any books on that subject, but if you look in the library here there is a whole lot of info on it. Look up on the left, click library, then look for airbrushing and shading.

Wow, he is cute.

Wow, what a great idea, thank you for that.

I am still trying to figure that out too Jenny.

You can buy the smallest stuff from CR's Crafts by the foot Erin.

Since the very first time I put the lockline type armature in the neck, and got rid of the neck joint I never went back. Makes them so easy and fun to pose. It is much easier than a double neck joint too.

I do leave the wire and put them into the head. I use a needle to make a small hole and put the wire down into the head. I do this because it has helped me immensely with getting the ears on the head even. I always seem to have to reposition them. This way I can move them if I need to before I stitch them. I have found though because there is no loop on the wire, that it need to really be securely stitched up along the seam. That way if the ear get crimped the wire cannot crimp and work it's way up.

DBears, what is it exactly that you would like to know. Maybe I, or someone here can give you answers to what it is you need.

Also when posting in that section choose your title carefully. Many people just go to ebay and type in a few words. If your bears are one of a kind, list them as such, OOAK Artist, mohair, teddy bear etc..add as many detail words as you can that you think people might be looking for. Do not add words like cute, no one really searches for words like cute.

Merry Christmas to you and all of your furry friends Peter.

I do remember seeing a simular issue on the Guild of Master BearCrafters site. Someone may have been KJ Lyons recommended using a light spray of a gloss acrylic sealer over the fur. Maybe it would help this puppy. I have never had this issue with Prismacolor markers either. The investment in a different marker may be worth all the frustration. Maybe an airbrush would also help.

SueAnn, I just went to the site you recommended, what good prices. I will buy there next time.

Thank you, These are taxidermy eyes, the whites are there. Makes it easy. Yes, that is just what I do. I would say that yes you can do the same thing with leather cording. The hole would need to be larger to accommodate the cord.