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This is what I originally asked the webbie for, last spring. Too much time has elapsed .. and a lot of material has been overlooked.... very frustrating. At least I've pd only half down.
I had totally missed the meta tags that're in place. He simply took the ones posted for my old site (sewn bears) and didn't update to reflect everything new in my work. I feel as if I have to build the whole model over again (you guessed it - cannot find my copy of the 2 disks I sent him.... story of my life) I don't think I was destined to have a site; I've been at it for 8 years, 6 different webbies and not a single one has produced results = a completely functional site.
I'm determined though and this WILL happen.
I cannot Thank You all enough for affirming what I've known in my heart that I wanted.
What I got was a format just like he's done for most other artists he's designed for; I'm gonna be the thing the burr under his saddle....
I've sent him (yet another) email listing all of the changes I need along with a fair amount of the quotes (no names or IDs!!)
TY TY TY!!!!
Not sure the image will upload as it's not showing up in Preview - it's been too long since I've done this..
And once again, (back of hand to forehead) my excuse is "I'm on drugs..."
Hi all,
It's been a very long process - over a year - but my website is beginning to be overhauled. I'm in a quandary and would like the opinions of those who know about search engines. I was under the impression that the keywords and meta tags from the whole site are what gets picked up on; my webbie is giving me the impression that it's the Home page contents that make the difference.
He's begun to formulate the site so that I can drop in the images and info and control the content from my computer.
Here's the problem: As I was reviewing the first page or 2 that he's begun, I was thinking that he'd done the About Us page - he says it's the Home page.
My vision of a Home page is very simple - one of the header bars (one of 5 vendor banners Shelli created), my logo bear's image and the company name. And an Enter button access into the site.
All Fine Art/Artist sites I've viewed and admired are quite stark - very little info beyond what I list above. A lot of them are on black or very dark backgrounds; I wasn't going that far but I'm unhappy with the current choice. I'm willing to accept the knowledge of someone if this is actually the truth about how the search engines work, but...
Me: I'd like the Home page to be as uncluttered as possible:
site name in header banner,
logo pic and
company name.
This is the About Us page you're showing me, right?
Webbie:
No, that is the home page ... if I do it as you explained, you will get virtually nil search engine listings ... the most important factor in getting good SE rankings is text content, and even though what is currently on the home page is only minimal, it is better than just doing what you want.
I don't feel the stuff on the page is 'minimal' - it's far too text-rich and has absolutely NO impact. Rather messy looking and unfocussed....
Here's the url: can you please look at this and give opinions on how the engines work?
http://www.beyondbasicbears.com/
TIA!! - I'm NOT looking for "How cute" "Can't wait to see the rest" "etc..."
Just please tell me if I'll have the same results if I stick to my image of how I picture the site or follow another's advice. I'm not very avant garde but hate looking run-of-the-mill more!
You can practice on a scrap of material like this:
Cut a length of fabric 1" wide x 6 or 8"long.
Prepare a length of upholstery thread 12" long when doubled.
Knot the loose ends together into a slightly larger than usual knot (you don't want it to pull through the seam)
Fold the fabric in half.
** Lay the doubled thread up against the inside of the fold line. placed so that the knot shows on the outside.
Sew a backstitched seam along the short end: the seam allowance depth will be determined on your fabric and your comfort zone - how close to the edge you feel comfotable sewing!
Capture the upholstery threads if you can - this assures the knot won't pull out while turning.
Turn the corner and sew about 1" of the long seam.
Roll the stitched inch between your fingers to soften the fabric's backing.
Dampen your fingertips of the holding hand and slightly pinch the sewn inch between them.
Gently begin to pull the thread outthrough this short tube.
Stop when the short sewn end appears in the hole.
Continue to sew and pull every inch or so, making sure that you haven't sewn through the doubled threads (If the happens, pull out your seam to the point od having caught the doubled tread, free them and sew the seam again)
By the time you've reached the top of your tube, the piece has been almost compltely pulled through.
When you get really good at controlling the fabric, you can use a bias strip whick gives a more flexible tail.
If you need this for a narrow limb:
sew down one side of the arm or leg to the farthest tip of the toe or paw.
Follow the instructions from ** to the end.
I usually placed my seam openings at the top curve - 11 to 1 clock positions, or 12 - 2 - as it is easier for me to use the short fine needles closing a curved section rather than on a staright edge.
Hope you understood that! - cut me some slack! I'm on drugs (second successful new knee) and out of hosp 5 days earlier! Endurance is something else again - not bothering with spell checking... glad to just be able to sit up, and type!
Easiest turning for skinny parts - tail, limbs, necks, etc.. Long thin needle & upholstery thread (Conso, Mastex, etc..)
Before sewing the seam:
Knot a doubled uphostery thread and leaving the knot against the sewn shut end (end of tail, toe end, paw pad...) sew across the end w3ith the usual back stitch. Poke the doun=bled thread inside so that it's not caught in the seam as you sew.
As soon as you've got a bit sewn, say - 1", roll the fabric between your fingers to soften it up and apply GENTLE pressure against theknot by pulling on the doubled threads. Continue to sew and put - by the time you reach the spot you've chosen as youir opening, the tip of the skinny point will be right there, ready to pull on through.
You 'can' run a doll needle through the completed part after it's sewn (in through the opening to the far end, over the seamline and back out again,) but you run the risk of catching some of the fabric inside or sewing through the frirst half of the doubled threads.
Pull out completely ans snip off the doubled threads, leaving just the knot inside the body part.
It's so much easier to pull-as-you-sew; this is how we made those spaghetti straps on our dresses and lingerie back in the 50s & 60s.
Daphne, I think that Cheryl FedExed them - because we laughingly said that some of us should drive to Tennessee (from Chi) overnight and get them there.
But, No fears, as they arrived late Sat (if I remember correctly) and they were all sold within a few hours on Sun, traditionally the slower day. Cheryl's work is brill!!!
I almost posted this myself yesterday! Makes sense - always look in My Messages to see if the original is there..
Great topic! ANYTHING George Guidall (sp?) reads is guaranteed to be great!
I wear my Walkman 24/7. (DH has my iPod...)
It has AM/FM (Nat'l Public Radio!), CDs & MP3s. I could not work, drive or sleep w/o it!!! I've always said - it you're holding a book you're not holding work.
It takes me a long time to fall asleep, and I wake several times in the night (old lady syndrome/trips); I'll check in the morning how much I actually heard, starting at track 6 - 10, but ususally back all the way up to track 1. That's it - less than 5 mins & I'm out. So much for that old theory about learning a foreign langauge while you sleep!!
My only problem is that MP3s play for 10 - 15 hours, so they either wake me up are are slurping up the battery juice while I'm asleep, and still playing in the morning! So I save those for daytime listening.
iPod - Chapters: I had trouble downloading my Amy Tam books, as the chapter/tracks listed themselves in numeric order -
1
11
12
13...
2
20
21
etc..
How do you do it so that the whole thing is in one complete-as-written order? Please advise!!
Aside from the few I own, all of mine come from Library. What a treasure. Most libs are linked into extended library systems and the collections are wide open to all patrons.
"No. 1 Ladies Detective Agency" series by Alexander McCall Smith.
Hi Cheryl (we were next to each other in Schaum. the year your pieces didn't arrive..) I heard my first one while on vacation last week. Parts of it were excellent but it seemed disjointed, making it was easy to fall asleep to...
Spoken word seems like a good generic name, at least I haven't come across it yet. Books on Tape, Recorded Books.. these are all copyrighted company names.
I'm into hosp for my second knee in the morning; the first done last winter is so successful that I can hardly wait!!!!! I've already packed 5 'books' plus 3 paperbacks (Amazon Used Bks) and some NFing - think that'll hold me for 2+ weeks??
Besides ticking Gift/Merchandise/Commercial Sample - you can include an inexpensive card (Birthday/Anniversary/Thinking Of You types) and wish the person you're shipping to a Happy Whatever. Our German cousins and Australian and European friends say this helps.
And mail all paperwork separately in an envelope.
On Topic - sorta....
2 of my yahoo sales lists have lost their owners in the past year: minis4sale and bears-4-sale. Both of them are filled with [INVALID]. I'm on digest so the postings are all listed first at the top and then the posts. It's really disdheartening to see your clever descriptions listed right between some of that other type.
I'm thinking of giving up those lists. Hate to do it but it's too off-putting. I can onmly imagine that collectors must feel the same.
Thread? You asked about thread??!! I offer this: don't bother with cotton covered polyester or polester covered cotton. The sheath just frays off duringr the repetitive sewing we do in hand stitching. All polyester is great and 2 of the best brands are
Mettlers Metrosene Plus and Gutermann's. If you can find Mettlers that says Swiss Made on the riung band of the spool and Made in Germany for Gutermann's, you've got the best. Tight twist, smooth & strong - like mercerized.
The companies changed hands some years back and M's is now made in Germany and G's in Mexico; not as good as they used to be but still excellent hand-sewing threads.
Hi Denise,
You answered the nose question - that you needled right up to it.
You have at least 2 other options, depending on the nose's original size. If it's not too big to start with, you can place your fiber right over it and needle to make it one seamless muzzle. Then sew a new nose on top or needle felt a cute shaped nose over the muzzle fiber.
Or - cut off the outer layers of your original threads and then continue as above.
Hi Patty,
May I ask some background first?
Do you know what fiber (sheep breed) you are using?
This looks fairly 'medium' - Corriedale, Perendale, Romney, etc... Not a finer gauged fiber like Polworth, Cormo, Merino, etc..
Did you start with the 32, then 36 and work down to the 40?
32 isn't really necessary unless you have a very coarse wool like Navajo/Churro.
Did you change needles sizes after breaking one of each and think it was the needle size?
Is the bear fabric (and its backing) mohair or upholstery fabric?
(Looks like mohair which has a slightly thinner and more flexible backing.)
When you squeeze the muzzle, is there any 'give' to it or is it very firm?
NO - WAIT!! Are the needle ends still in there? In something so small it's imperative to dig them out, as they migrate through. (Today I tore a chunk off my 6" cube of foam, to find a sewing needle inside! It had migrated the 6" across the cube from where I poked it in and was near the point of exiting the far side. Good thing I hadn't poked my hand on it yet!
Do you always pull the needle back out after every thrust - at the same angle it went in?
Any deviation will cause the more brittle reduction point to weaken and snap.
Possibly, needle a little more slowly & deliberately.
From the looks of your bear's muzzle, and knowing the scale it is, I would start with a 36 and still be using 36, just about ready to change to 38 to begin to tighten the surface - IF the inside is very firm.
Answers to the above questions will help lead to a solution.
>>>I'm needlefelting a face on a small (4 inch) bear I made a few years ago.
An excellent way to enhance an older bear and give it an updated look, doing things that're nearly impossible to accomplish, at least as easily in fabric.
>>>>>I'm not unhappy with the results so
Curious here: What aren't you happy with? The look of the semi-finished result or the NFing process?
>>>>>but, I've broken 3 needles; a 40, 36 and 32. Now I'm down to a 42 and a 20 neither of which are working on this little bear.
This is a 42 & 40 you're meaning? I know of a 19 - a huge needle, useful for linen or hemp - but way to large for any animal fiber I can think of....
>>>>Do you think I'm needling overzealously?
Yes, could be. Slow down the thrusting pace...
Do I need to buy better needles?
There are needles and there are needles... In another thread (or list?) we were discussing the difference in barbs: some are actually cut into the edges, leaving sharp edges which may in turn cut the fiber. The brand I use, carry and recommend are by Foster, out of WI. Go to their website and read about 'formed' needles.
www.fosterneedlesusa.com
(or maybe that's needle - singular...)
The barb formation wouldn't cause them to be any more or less likely to break, but of the 4 major needle manufacturers, these are the ones that are the best in value and use.
I've never dulled a needle, and some of mine are at least 4 years old. I think the cut barbs are more likely wear down than the formed ones.
Sometimes the feeling of dullness is from the need to change needle sizes, as the piece becomes more compacted.
Let us know - and you're off to a flying start!!!
I had this on watch too - I'm almost embarassed to say - that it's because of the polar bear. I wanna do just like that - but at 2 or 3"....
I've said it many many times - the doll artists make usbear ppl look like neanderthals.... clumsy ones at that....
OMG - #42 on a LIFE-SIZED cat?? You ARE a glutton for punishment. I'd've started the mer/ramb with 38 T or S. 36 is too coarse on that finer fiber. But 42 must've taken you FOREVER!!!!
Please read Foster's site for the info. I'm supposed to be packing for a flight in a few hours and cannot write all of their info. They sell to distributrors (ppl like me) only in boxs of 1000 per size minimum so it's a real investment to make intitially. I retail for more but fellow listees get a good break.
http://www.fosterneedleusa.com/prd/index.html
And click on each listed style for the info.
Sorry if this looks like an ad - I think it is. See that Signature under my name? My company sells them write for sizes & pricing - the best to fellow listees.
Addition - (why do I proofread after it's posted.) Our private DH & Me group is a yahoo group, not in eBay's system.
Jodi, We were writing at the same time. I hope you did not feel that I was dishonoring the respect you showed me in replying, by posting your unedited responses to me: I had actually quite forgotten that I'd written for information when your first came through yesterday.
I apologize here & now for any ill will generated toward your efforts on anything I said. It was not my intention - originally queried for information.
If you can make this a Artisan/Guild for furthering what's inside of each of us, more the better!
I think the money issue - and the ball park figure - made most everyone sit up and Blink, twice....
After your explanation, I can see how it would weed out some substandard or manufactured work, though eBay is by far one of the worst evaluators of the quality of work.
In light of keeping the group to a higher standard, this is still cool. There definitely are lists for beginners as well as more advanced skillpersons.
When I started in 1990, one of the biggest issues was Who should be called/call themselves an Artist? It was a general opinion that if you got more than the minimum price or had won a competition, then you may call yourself an artist. I still don't - that's an adjective only for others to apply to any work I'd do, but that's just me.
Even after all of those nominations and awards, I don't see it affecting my bottom line so to me they are personal satisfaction and perhaps a little name recognition.
From a personal standpoint, I belong to over 100 yahoo groups, about 1/3 - 1/2 are related to my business. The eBay groups I belong to are not as easy to navigate and some are private and so small that there are only 2 members. DH & me!
It's a private list to remind ourselves of tax bills due, Dr appts, change furnace filters and car oil changes, etc.. Yahoo is very easy to use and can be set up as Private and By Invitation Only.
As you iron out your group guidelines, I hope you'll continue to post, just to show the work that goes into forming an endeavour/organization like this.
I'm not even spell-checking - gotta get the clothes into the schleppers!
AAacccchhhh - hit Send instead of Spell Check. I'm leaving for AZ in a few hours - not done packing yet! Yikes.
But please don't doubt my word - I do not alter emails.
Go to eBay>Advanced Search>endorian>and ask her yourselves. Please!!
I did not even know her name until I took a convoluted path through Feedback to find her name.
Anything posted in an email is open to inspection, (through many nefarious methods, all unknown to me) unless the author requests it to be kept private.
Be happy to FORWARD the emails; I cut & pasted them in their entirity along with my replies.
I was using a single 42 needle on the merino-rambo, by the way.
This is Marr Haven's Mer/Rambo mix? That seems almost impoosible to believe - not that I doubt you! But that little avatar bear on the left is 1.75" tall at his rump and he's got very tiny ears. They went together and needled on with No Prob.He is rock hard and it's their same fiber. And #42 is about the only size I can get pushed in anymore.
I've never had a problem with the Marr's fibers and I've had perhaps 4 different batches over a 4 year period.
What other sizes of needles did you use? Could it possibly have been dmaged by the barbs of the beginning sizes? And were these Foster's needles? I have some by other companies that had the barbs literally cut into the sides, leaving sharp edges like knives.
Foster's are called 'formed barbs' for this very reason: all surfaces are beveled and just don't cut fibers unless they are week / damaged fibers to begin with; then they are breaking, not being cut.
LMK!!
Hi Sabine!
You've got quite a continental background!! When we travel we always hit the neighborhood grocery stores, to find indigenous foods. Restaurants don't give a true picture of what the local folk eat. And after reading - The Chocolate Wars - on the history of the #1 snack food (followed by Fast Food Nation as #2 'interesting' reading!) we found it very true.
What Belgians like in chocolate is different from the French and French to Swiss and Swiss to Czech etc.. (can you tell we eat our away around Europe!!??) as to sweetness, texture, mouth-feel, melting time.
There are different recipes for the same brand, given different local taste preferences.
I like Mars bars here - did not like them in the UK. And Hersheys is definitely a grittier chocolate than what we got used to in Europe.
So in sending Hersheys and Snickers, etc our cousins may note the difference in them compared to what's available and labeled there as the same candy in southern Germany.
Its an Americanized world
First noted in England - Why, half of these cars are Fords! - but like no Ford we've ever seen here. That opened our eyes 20+ years ago during our first foray into Europe.
I never noticed a shortage in either walnuts or peanuts.
We must have been looking in the wrong places - or you lot ate them all up!
I have actually heard back from the list owner - of the 18 members there's one owner and four moderators.
Thx for the private emails weighing in on this, too!!
In my mind a guild type of group should be about achieving new levels of skill/excellence within one's own realm of work, not about who gets in and how much money they earn. That's for Alumni groups in terms of fund-raising farming!
A curious thing is (in reading endorian's eBay Feedback - and how else would one ever prove their income, should they wish to reveal it, but in a public forum like finished eBay listings?) that her sales are between zip and $500+ a month in the past 6 months. Why set so high a minimum requirement for group inclusion? Money has NEVER equalled ability.
And as to bearmaking, many more mice are made by endorian than bears
endorian's reply:
Hello Bobbie, The membership list is private because we didn't want people writing the members and asking to be invited , because it will be out of their control and even mine, on who gets final membership approval, (because each memeber has only one vote) that way there won't be any hard feelings if an artist is not voted in. When Nominations are open, members put artist names in for consideration, then that artist is researched by a panel of moderators, if their work is approved and the artist to be shown as a person of high integrity, then their name is brought to the group for a vote. Membership is very limited , that is why those that are nominated do not know they are being nominated until they are voted into the group.
I hope this answers some of your questions.
