Teddy Talk: Creating, Collecting, Connecting

Shelli,
I should have warned you when I read that you were going into the world of real fur.  I always leave much bigger openings for turning.  You might try the ultimate stuffing tool.  I use it alot for turning.  Start at the toe and push it up and towards the opening.  As you go get the hemostats and gently pull from inside the leg.  Keep checking to see how much stress you are putting on the opening.  It may be best to take some of your stitching out.  Also when I do a real fur bear I use a longer stitch than what I use for mohair.  Again, sorry I didn't give you a heads up before you started this bear.

Donna

Shelli,
I skip the fiberfil and start with the glass then the bb's to the ankle then stuffing the rest of the leg firmly.  I tend to make the footpad a little wider than normal and the hips wider also.  But you already have the bear finished so I would start with the glass then if you want polyfil so the bb's don't fall through then the bb's.  On one bear the weave was really loose and I was afraid the glass would come through the fabric so I put a piece of pantyhose doubled in the foot and then filled that with the glass and bb's.  I find when I have put the polyfil in the bottom so no bumps show they don't stand as well.  They need the give of the glass to sit against the table.  Some people put a cardboard sole inside the foot before adding the bb's so they have a flat surface.
Good Luck and hold your mouth just right!

Donna

Heather,
You might want to go ahead and get the good stuff just for the head and use your polyfil for the rest of the bear.  There are several artists in CA that use both stuffings.  One for the head and one for the rest of the bear.

Donna

When I do a special order fur bear I always ask the customer if I may include cedar inside the bear.  It gives a nice fragrance when squeezed and helps protect the bear from critters.    In the past I have used a dryer sheet inside the bear if fur had a less than pleasant odor.

Donna

Hi Danni,
I have taken several classes where we did waxed noses.  The class that I took from Steve Schutt, you run the pearl cotton thru the bees wax before you do the stitching.  After you have pulled the pearl cotton through the wax you pull the pearl cotton between your index finger and your thumbnail to remove any excess wax.  With this method you have a nice light wax effect.  You don't have to worry about fire.  This is a quick easy method, give it a try.

The other method was in a class with Kathleen Wallace.  She had us rub the cold bees wax on the nose after it is stitched.  Heat the nose after rubbing with wax with a hair dryer then buff with paper.  Keep rubbing more wax onto the nose and heating until you have the amount you want.

Then I was taught the method that SueAnn mentioned.  I like the other two methods better.  With this method if the wax cools down too quickly on the nose or has globs of wax in areas you can blast it with the hairdryer to warm the wax enough to even things out before you buff. 

I just recieved some colored wax that I have not used yet.  I think it is the Ezy Wax.  I have a friend that uses decopauge (did I spell that correctly) on her noses.  Adding two or three thin layers and letting it dry in between layers.

Hope this gives you some help with different approaches to waxing.

Donna

Hi Rita,
Robert Zacher has a large assortment of "other" patterns.  Haida supply carried his patterns.  You may be able to do a search and see if you can find them.  Another source is Nicki Harper of Bear Bums.   She has a site you can order the patterns.  Nicki Harper 1215 N. 59th  Nampa, ID 83687.

Donna

Shelli,
Different Donna here, but I think Linda Mullins now ABC San Diego show require fire-retardant covers.  I know Nancy Jo's in Vallejo also.  I know the one Pat Moore did in Napa did.  It depends on the Fire Marshall in each seperate county or city.  If anyone in the San Francisco bay area is looking for a show we have Pat Moore's next weekend July 22-24.  Another good one is Larry Herman's Sept.  17 in Hayward, CA.
I have a question for you about the mugs.  I hate to admit that I did not tune into anything on your table at Nevada City except for your wonderful bears and that great smiling face behind the table.  Do you think it was the price point of the mugs or was it that everyone was so enchanted by you and your bears that they did not give a second thought to the mugs.  I'm asking because I can get the mugs through the Scott's and think it could be a good promo.  I have done some of the mugs for gifts, more of a good times together thing, but would like to work them into the show table if it would be worth my while.
One thing I have found to give a different look to the table is to find a sheer curtain panel to cover risers and go from one theme on your table to another.  You can also use them as a backdrop it you want to cover what is behind you without blocking out light.
Thanks,
Donna M.

Just wanted to put my 2 cents in here.  I now use Tweezerman wide grip tweezers for plucking my bears.  They are ergonomically designed and work much better than forceps.
Donna

Shelli,
You are a force in the teddy bear world, and I feel there are several that have felt your influence to get off their duffs.  This is not a bad thing!  Keep up the force!

Bear Hugs,
Donna

Hi SueAnn,
The Ultimate Stuffing tool comes in two lengths now (thanks to Shelli).  The original length is 11.5 inches.   It has a four inch wooden handle with a 6.5 inch shaft and the tip is an inch.  It is the tip design that really moves the stuffing into all those nooks and crannies. 
The new shorter version is made the same with the shaft being just four inches.  For a total length of 9 inches.
I started with the wooden stuffing sticks and have used cotterkeys for stuffing.  With these I had pockets and was always puttings holes in the fabric.  I have used forceps for trying to fill in the pockets and to move the stuffing to the little tight places.  Again I would put holes in the fabric and would cause nerve damage to my thumb.  Now I use my fingers and my Ultimate stuffing tool and get a much better stuffing job without holes being poked through the mohair.  I tend to be a brute while making bears!
Donna

Hi All,
I am new to the board.  Shelli is forcing me to become active.   I am the person that sells the Ultimate Stuffing tool.  One other thing I have discovered with this tool is that it will also work as a stuffing tool when using excelsior.  I use excelsior when doing repairs on old bears and the stuffing claw that is recommended for excelsior always made me nervous with the old frail mohair.  I was always afraid the points of the claw would go through the fragile fabric.  With the Ultimate Stuffing tool, I no longer have that concern.  So those of you who use excelsior in the nose area of your new bears would only need one stuffing tool.
Thanks,
Donna