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25mm is 1", those are easy enough to find. At that size, cotter pins are used more commonly than nuts, though. Good luck!


When I sew on white velvet, I use a very thin micron pen or water-vanishing marker to trace out the pieces.


Welcome! Where do you live? Assuming you're in the US, Glass Eyes Online carries 1mm glass eyes on wire.


Here's some photo-tutorials to help get you started. … -214111813 … -496330994

Fortunately it's a very forgiving technique. If you screw up, you can just cut the thread and start over!


Thread sculpting can help remedy that sort of problem. Do you have a long doll needle?


Yeah this is a very, very slow forum nowadays.

I've been developing a modular mini monster pattern, for mix n match critters like manticores and chimeras. Where'd you get your start making minis?

Oh thank you that's a good tip!

Oof, I've spent years snooping around upholstery shops trying to find "the good stuff" with that woven backing, without much success. If you ever strike gold let me know! Crate and Barrel's tragically discontinued Valencia fabric had the right backing, tipped pile, and a range of colors :'(  I don't know if they've got anything suitable these days.

I've used Jacquard Acid dye on that velvet a few times, but eventually switched over to Rit Dyemore because liquid is less of a mess and easier to measure than powder.

Oh wow! We should chat over PMs or something


OMG Thank you for the info! This is a huge relief!


Welcome, clipping curves is pretty essential to avoid rumpling at the seams. I find it best to turn the plush right-side out and brush out the seams, then flip it inside out again before clipping the curves.


Always happy to see another mini maker! It's a painful road we walk, trying to find suitable fabrics for mini plushies. I haven't had much success finding long pile upholstery plush either, so I hope somebody else can chime in. 

Mohair Bear Making Supply's faux cashmere is wonderful, so I just endure the overseas shipping cost. … x-cashmere
(A word of caution, the colors on the website photos are quite inaccurate). It's only got a 1mm pile, but it's so dense you can barely see the backing at all. It can also be dyed with Rit Dyemore (but you gotta be careful not to damage the pile)

Edinburgh Imports' miniature fabric also has the right backing, but I don't like the pile quiiite as much. … ath=11_405


I'm sure some other users have noticed went offline last year. Does anyone know what happened? Has anyone found a satisfactory substitute fabric?

Pusheeface wrote:

Hello everyone, I am new to making teddies (well teddy cats are my focus - just finished my 1st one last night)! I'm looking to try cotter pin joints as opposed to the plastic ones (they are brutal snapping into place) for my next teddycat, and I have a question...

Why do all the cotter pin joints have a fiberboard/wood disc in between the metal washers? Is there a reason why a metal washer (the same size as the wood disk) isnt used?

I'm asking because the wood discs are really hard to find locally.

Thank you so much for your help!

Welcome to the hobby!
I'd imagine it's to protect the fabric. The edges of a metal washer could easily wear away at the fabric over time, not to mention the potential rust stain/discoloration.
Fiberboard joint discs are a specialist item in general, I think most people have to buy them online.


No problem, let me know if you need further guidance.


Here's a tutorial on safety eye installation: … -tutorial/

You can also buy clear glass eyes on wire and paint the backing: … oops-clear


That's crazy!!! How much of it did you have to sew right-side-out?


Welcome to the forum! Sorry it's a bit slow around here.

General methods to avoid tearing seams are to use a shorted stitch length, backstitch instead of straight stitch, and apply fray check to the edges of the pieces.

Pulling at the seams is an unfortunate reality of working with felt (the main reason I personally don't use it). What type of faux fur are you using? What kind of backing does it have? How big are your bears?


Welcome to the forum! It's pretty slow around here, but there's tons of information in the library.

"String Jointing" in teddies means something different than it does for BJDs. The end result is basically the same as disc jointing. Here's a tutorial: … -bear.html

Anatomy of a Doll by Susan Oroyan covers a lot of different jointing methods. Cotter pins and washers are normally metal, only the ones labeled "safety joints" are plastic. If you plan to bake metal parts into the clay, I would reinforce it with epoxy post-baking. Wire or loc-line armatures provide the widest range of motion. Loc-line is pricey but very durable and holds positions well. Unfortunately smallest size (Labeled 1/4", but actually has a 3/5" outside diameter) is still too big for smaller plushies.

Soft bodies with clay/resin faces and paws aren't my thing, but I can point you in the direction of some artists who use it. You may be able to find some progress photos that show how the hard pieces are attached. If you have an account you could try asking them directly.

What style plush are you thinking of? How experienced are you with sewing? For simplified styles like classic teddies, a single base pattern can become very versatile by changing ears/tails/ect. If you want to make more complex or realistic stuff, that's a long, hard road fraught with pattern testing. If it interests you I can link a bunch of resources on plush pattern design.


That looks way better! I do think the claw impression could stand to be a tiny bit oblong, rather than just a circle.

I'd be interested to hear about the process you use to make these.

mandybutler wrote:

I've read this only recently but can anyone tell me if still runs the on line needle sculpting courses if not can anyone recommend a book showing how to do needle sculpting of the muzzle etc

Anatomy of A Doll by Susanna Oroyan has some information about needle sculpting, though it's for human-like dolls that are generally made from different materials than teddies.

Here's some online tutorials as well: … -214111813
http://sfmclothdollswithattitude.blogsp … orial.html

Oh and here's one more specifically for eyes … -496330994


I've had that same problem. Try gathering the edge where the muzzle and face meet.


I just heard back from Sassy Bears! She'd gotten caught in a hacking scam and had to close and reopen all her accounts. I'm glad to hear she's ok.


(Sorry, this is probably not the right subforum for this question, but I wasn't sure where else to post it)

Sassy Bears hasn't answered my correspondence in the past 2 months. Has anyone heard from them? I hope nothing serious happened to the site owner.

dangerbears wrote:

I guess the alligator clips are for clipping fabric pieces together. I use pins, but with small pieces, the clips might work well.  :)

Huh, I'd worry about the "teeth" on alligator clips damaging delicate fabrics. My mom has some tiny plastic sewing clips without teeth, though.


Don't worry, asking questions is what the forum is here for!

Just an ordinary sewing needle will work for most of it, but you do need a longer needle for some of the finishing techniques like thread sculpting, thread jointing, and attaching eyes. These techniques require a needle that can comfortably go all the way through the head/body with length to spare. For that 5" piece, a 2.5" needle should work.

Regular sewing thread works for most of the plushie, but once again, thread sculpting, thread jointing, and attaching eyes require stronger thread. However, when working at such a small scale, ordinary sewing thread should be strong enough.

Since you're working small, you will need some hemostats or small jewelers' pliers to turn the pieces right side out (and to secure the cotter pins).

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