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Burlison BearsI'm brand-new here and I've been making mini bears for 1 year now, and I never had any professional input as to what length each stitch should be. I've always been disappointed that my stitches show once the bear is finished. But should they be showing at all? Sometimes it's charming since I do distressed bears, and it can kind of add character. But I'd prefer they didn't show or barely at all. I use venus bonded nylon (don't know if that's a good idea or not, but it's so strong that I love it) for all my handsewing.
Could y'all tell me in centimeters what length of tiny stitch should I be attempting? And any other helpful advice for me to improve the look of my minis...even though I will be heavily distressing them? haha! 
thanks
Eliza
fribbles, ltd.Eliza, I have this same problem---about the only thing that really helps hide things is a vintage longpile fur! Then my bears look fantastic! *LOL*
But seriously, I use a double-stitch, with upholstery thread, and cinch tight after I pull each stitch through---because of advice received here on the forum---perhaps 3-4 mms in length, but then I double back over them, so that the stitch holes are spaced 1.5-2mm apart. That's for a mini of under 3", though.
How big are your minis? 'cause minis range in size from under 1" to about 6-8", I think. That's what I consider a mini bear, anyways. Melissa or Kim or Kimberly would probably be better at suggesting stitch length, I always admire their minis with no signs of being sewn, just seems like they were born.
And I've heard that the Super-lon thread from Sassy's is great for sewing---don't know if helps the stitching be invisible, though. Matching up colors is a really great stitch hider technique too. Also, I notice if I use a smaller needle, it leaves smaller holes that aren't as apparent as the holes a great big whopping needle leaves.
Amelia
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)Are you familiar with the size of the squares on the back of the vintage long pile? I''ve just measured several pieces and they average between 28 squares running with the nap and 32 squares across the grain.
It's always been said that using 1 row of backstitch is the strongest seam, providing the sts are entering or exiting each hole. (That has been carried a bit to the extreme sometimes, as sections on the bias will actually flare out like rippled crepe paper if sts are too close and not pulled snugly enough) But basically it's a matter of 2 steps (squares) forward and 1 step back.
'Snugly enough' means keeping the fabric at the same length or tension that an unstitched piece has.
I averaged 20 - 25 sts per inch, so I wasn't hitting every hole but darned close to it. A single strand of good strong polyester thread, (not poly-covered cotton or cotton-covered ploy which will fray the first layer off w/the repetitive stitching) like Metrosene Plus or Guttermann's. I could thread the needle and get 2 full pieces stitched with the same length of thread - I just hated stopping and rethreading! I also stuff 'hard' and if anything would cause sts to show, that does!
I used # 8 & 10 Embriodery needles, which aren't especially thin or short like those tiny little expensive ones - big hands here and I need a needle I can hold on to. But careful placements and just-right tension of the ss - no stitches showing along the seamlines.
The problems that I've seen with going around the seams twice are that the sts still do not hit every single spot (square).
And unless you stitch along the exact line again, you run the risk of the sts from one of the passes showing, thinking that a second row will tension what might've been missed in the first pass.
Half a dozen times around a piece only increases the problem, as you now have a huge gob of stitching, w/o having one clean 'break' line for spreading the seam allowance apart on the wrong side while stuffing. They should be spread or you risk having the look of a flat-felled seam, i.e., have you ever had the fur along a gusset - especially just above the eye at the greatest amount of curve - absolutely not want to have the nap flow smoothly away from the seam?
On one side of the seam, the lower side of a flat-felled seam, the pile lays flat to the head while opposite along the seam and just past it, the nap flares out at least 90°? And you see the backing through the fur along this flared out spot? Being long pile won't hide this mistake. This is, in effect, an unstsitched flat-felled seam, like the side seam of your jeans where both seam allowances are flattened over to one side. The only way to correct the smooth flow of the pile/nap is to unstuff the area and spread the seam allowances apart, holding them in place with careful positioning of stuffing.
It can be used to advantage when you want the pile to look as if the 'hair has been parted' but it's usually caused as the effect of hasty stuffing.
I grin in rememberance of attending shows in the 90s; Sundays were usually pretty dead and all artists had time to chat with their fellow artists. Twice I was chatting with artists who were known for their kits. As we stood chatting on both of these occasions, they were sewing - - with great big galloping sts on the fabric of new models. As if, "It's on the inside and who cares as long as it looks OK when I'm done."
Obviously, it made me feel quite superior!! Conceited thing I was/am!!! Those 2 instances are exactly why I have the quote on my site about Mom & Grandma insisting that "it look as good on the inside as the outside."
They checked!! Oh, the perfect non-puckering darning I had to do, and the handmade French seams....
Burlison BearsWow! I'm going to have to print all this out! This is a lot of information and very valuable. Thanks guys!
Oh, Amelia... I do 4" minis and 3.5" minis. Little Toot pictured is 3.5" tall to the top of his head, not his ears. I never count the ears.
I'd like to hear from others about the length of their stitch in mm. I said cm at first but I meant mm.
MerBear OriginalsBobbie - we must have had the same mother! :clap:
Marion
Don't think anybody could add to what Bobbie gave you.....that is the most complete, detailed, yet concise, effort anyone could make ...
highlight, copy to word..print it out and keep it with your bear making stuff...........................
Bears by Jodi
Wild Thyme OriginalsOh Bobbie..... 
you are so awesome for this kind of stuff!!!!!! I'd say that I do about "two squares forward, one square back when I'm using the grid backed material.
I also use a single strand of Gutterman's polyester thread. I DO use the teenie weenie needles though! Freakishly small hands here though! I think they are size 12 quilting sharps. I do tend to like a nice thin needle for the same reason as stated above... the holes you end up making are a whole lot smaller.
But tension, yes, tension is really what makes the biggest difference to me in my sewing. I think that's just kind of something that you learn a bit more about. There does seem to be sort of a "magic tension." I have this little flick of the thread that I do with my pinky. I wish I could film it... it's kind of funny!
Kim Basta
Posts: 1,836Kim we're working just about the same way, maybe even with the pinky flick! :crackup: I use a quilting size 10 and I do use doubled gutermann thread instead of the single strand. 2 squares forward one back using a backstitch always. I do think mini's are a bit different in that they don't have to be stuffed rock hard, doing so can alter those wee seams. I stuff firmly and weight, but don't go for rock hard. It's a teddy, not a marble sculpture 
:hug:
~Chrissi
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)I forgot to add this bit on - when you're stitching mohair or any other fabric w/o the white grid, just remember the size of your sts through long pile: they should always be the same length as with that fabric and tensioned to not pucker the fabric anywhere.
I also sealed just my cutting lines before cutting out. That allowed me a flexible yet sealed edge, as I sewed right next to the edge. Even stuffing firm/hard there were never weak spots, popped seams or sts showing.
Well...I think Bobbie pretty much covered it all....
my mother (being a sewing/quilting teacher) was the same as Bobbie's - I can't tell you the number of times I unpicked a shirt cuff once, when I was learning to sew! I am just the same as you Bobbie, and was totally aghast when I saw some professionals sewing their bears once. I remember reading about several artists in magazines who estimate their minis take them between 2-4 hours from start to finish. I am a painfully slow sewer and take at least that long just stitching my bear let alone stuffing and finishing!
But back to your original question Eliza. I think tension is one of the key things - it's one of those things that you learn as you go. Your stitches need to be firm but not so tight as they pucker the fabric.
I use invisible thread to sew minis from upholstery velvet. The one I use is a very high quality slightly textured very fine but strong thread and once you get used to it is much easier to sew with than regular cotton. However, I completely understand that most people don't like it.
On my mohair minis (as small as 2 inches) I use regular polyester sewing thread - usually metrosene brand. I use 1 strand if the bear is under about 3.5 inches and a doubled strand if it is over that.
I use a small backstitch - though technically it's not quite a backstitch as I don't go back into exactly the same hole as I came up at - I usualy go a bit further back...someone told me that was a good way of hiding seams.
I average about 1-2 holes per stitch on the mini velvet and on mohair about 2mm stitch length. NOT a fast sewing method but it works for me.
I use a fine piecemaker's brand needle (they are my favourite) - I think it's an applique needle, I'll check the packet when I get home - they're longer than a quilting needle, but not too thick. Using a "crowbar" as my friend likes to call them, will create bigger holes in your fabric and make the stitches easier to see.
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)I can't tell you the number of times I unpicked a shirt cuff once,
Unpicked ... Once?? We had to 'turn' cuffs & collars. When wear made the outer edges begin to fray, we removed them completely and turn them over to expose the inside. I hate to admit the # of times I had to unpick and then reattach cuffs, forgetting that I should've sewn them to the opposite sleeve so that the button holes would be in the correct position!!
The one I use is a very high quality slightly textured
Ours are quite smooth and slick. I'm not familiar with any like that.
once you get used to it is much easier to sew with than regular cotton
Oh, not cotton! That's not supposed to be kept under the pressure that stuffing brings. I'd hate to think of the sts breaking later. Ever purchased vintage spools with cotton and silk threads on them? The threads'll pull apart in your fingers.
Using a "crowbar" as my friend likes to call them, will create bigger holes in your fabric and make the stitches easier to see.
My size 8 & 10 could be called crowbars but with careful placing of the sts, there aren't any holes to show after stuffing.
I've got a pic in my camera about puckered sts. I'll post this now and then upload it. It was from a Round Robin swap in which I made the heads, but I never finished the bear cuz I didn't feel like resewing this person's Body.
Lauhon OriginalsLike Melissa I use the invisible thread. It is tough because you can't see it when you are sewing and it can easily get tangled. But after a while you get the hang of it. I use quilting needles to make the tiniest holes and sew a back stitch. You never have to worry about color matching and the stitches can't be seen.
mini hugs,
Susan
