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I posted this question in the thread about shading with markers-prismacolor, etc. I read that heat setting is recommended. If using a blow dryed what length of time is needed to heat set?
Our Blue Iguanaim still new at shading, but when i use shading on prisma pencils, i don't heat set it. Last time i use copic markers, i dont heat set it as well. I read somewhere that they seem to be permanent so no need to heat set it.
I could be wrong... hope someone will share an insight? 
:hug: Ming
I have teddies I made 6 years ago when I started out ..the Copic shading has not faded one bit...I didn't heat set it. If you display your bears in sunlight anything will fade eventually..I have some artist bears I bought years ago and the mohair colour has faded loads but the shading hasn't. Copics are pretty permanent in my opinion...however others will probably say differently 
Posts: 51I use copic markers now and they seem great, but I used to use pencils like karisma and the shading looked great but kept coming off so I guess that does need to be heat set but I also don"t know how to heat set... :redface:
This is the original thread that I found that mentioned heat setting http://www.teddy-talk.com/viewtopic.php?id=2109
I have been using the prismacolor markers for awhile and I have experienced some fading and they weren't in the sunlight. I used them to put paw pads on ultrasuede. It was a dog so the feet were down and not exposed to light at all. I figure some time with the blowdryer can't hurt-I just don't know how long.
Chaska, MinnesotaTo piggy back on this question--if you shade with prisma color pencils, do they fade? Do you need to heat set pencils?
Posts: 51I used the karisma pencils on paper too and they also faded there, but on the bears paws they just keep coming off when I touch it apart from the fading in sunlight. I'm going to try on a piece of fabric what it is going to be like when I use the blowdryer, I have some pieces left which are too small to make a bear anyway and I use them for trying out dye so why not try this?!?
LuxembearsHi Nancy,
Like the others have mentioned, I too do not think markers need to be heat set. Acrylic paints need to be heat set, however...and once set they become permanent. 
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)I have used Prismacolor pencils since 1994 on Fabric bears, probably one of the first to do so as there was no shading that I was seeing being done then. And I have had no fading on those pieces yet. But it takes rubbing firmly to impregnate the fabric with pigment and that lifts the surface and disarranges the surface fibers in Needle Felting.
So I successfully switched to markers; Prismacolor, Copic and a few other brands. I have never needed to heat-set in/on fiber.
The need seems to be more when the markers (and other inks) are used on solid non-porous surfaces like ceramic & polymer clays: those take much longer to dry.
I use stamp pads & other inks for use on currency paper (which is mostly cotton & other fibers in the US - wheresgeorge.com) and those take a longer time to dry. Heat setting would speed up drying there.
BUT - I've had my first NFed work fade since its photo session 6 months ago. I realized the only difference is that I used the Blender pens (like erasures) to fade the colors out to nothing. It's my opinion that even after the Color Blenders are dry, they may still continue to lighten/remove marker color. This has caused me to switch products for coloring and use my markers only when I don't need to use the blenders.
I looked at a number of listings/sites online and found these:
(they are for use with different pencils & marker brands)
A set of 12 Hand-picked colours chosen specially for colouring your dolls face or body. These colours will have a wide range of uses and is good value for money. The set comes with 7 blending tortillions which are great for reaching those tight spots. Use of these tortillions eliminates the fuzzy effect you would get from using a scrap of fabric. The blending sticks are made from paper and can easily be resharpened using a sanding paddle.
 Prismacolor pencils have thick, soft leads made from brilliant, light-resistant pigments. The colours are easy to blend, slow to wear, and waterproof. They can even be heat set and used wet. Each round wooden pencil is lacquered to match the core. They transfer their colour and blend easily, allowing artists to achieve a wide range of wet or dry effects...From Diane: "These were bleached, then sanded and Ophelia stamped in black Stazo-On. Heat-set, then color. I used Prismacolor markers for these, but pencils or Sharpie markers work just as well. Heat-set again, then use a cotton ball to daub on the background color. On these I used Krylon leafing pens, but I've discovored that paint pens my husband uses in his model railroading work very well for good, solid color that doesn't run or fade. Heat-set again, and outline the edge with Prismacolor markers or a Sharpie.
Heat-set one last time, then let cool completely. Shellac - I used spray Clearcote from Michael's. These were done with hi-Shine, but there's a matte version too. I set the dominos on tin foil or wax paper, spray aorund the edges to get the sides and then the top. Let dry and then string with beads of your choice. Enjoy!"http://www.splitcoaststampers.com/forum … p?t=243595
"I used a sample formica tile, covered it with a thin
piece of gold Sculpey III, stamped it with Cartolina
Postale image, baked, applied different colors of
Rub'n Buff. I stamped the Domino with a Flapper image,
heat set to dry, watercolored, then spray sealed. I
used gold Rub'n Buff around the edges. Fibers were
added to the tile.
