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For artists and collectors sponsored by Intercal...your mohair supplier and Johnna's Mohair Store
South AustraliaHi All,
I haven't use fray stoppa up til now because all my bears have been fake fur and the fabric has not frayed,
But I am now making my first mohair bear.
I cut out all the pieces and went on to sew them together and as I sewing the fabric just kept pulling away because of the weave backing so I have undone the sewing and fray stopped all my pieces, I am now waiting for them to dry.
I didn't realize I would have to do this with the mohair but at least I saw my mistake before I went too far.
Also I like the fact that the mohair is in little "clumps which will be so much easier to trim and pluck out the hairs, I think I'm gonna like working with "real" fur!!!!!!
BrisbaneSome mohair tends to fray more then others. I found alpaca frays a lot as well as a lot of the really sparse mohairs. What are you using for fray stop? I found out that some fray stops drys really hard and stiff, which makes the fabric difficult to work with. I like to use a watered down leather glue for fray stop, drys clear and doesn't go hard or brittle at all. I trace my pattern onto my fur and then use a paint brush to paint the mixture over the lines. I let it dry and then cut it out. Mohair is so good to work with. :dance:
GJOYful BearsThis is an interesting post! 
I fray stop every bear's pieces, whether it be plush fur, tissavel, mohair or alpaca (I don't fray stop the mini bear fabric or genuine fur of course). I fray stop after I've cut out, trimmed and sewn all the pieces together. When I've done all that I fray stop using "fray stoppa" and a little paint-brush to gloss over the seams. Fray Stoppa dries very hard but it also never lets anything fray. When I do trapunto paw pads, and tightly stuff the trapunto area then sew up the calico, it would fray terribly until there was no more trapunto if I didn't use the firm-setting Fray Stoppa.
Teeeej is right, alpaca frays much worse than mohair. Not sure why but someone probably does
There's so many differences in plush and mohair fur too. Mohair doesn't stretch out of shape, it is great to sew, it's great to needle sculpt etc and holds the pattern shape when you stuff it tightly unlike poor quality plush. However I have to say since I discovered Tissavel faux fur I've been one very happy bear maker 
It is just like working with mohair, maybe even stronger though, but it is the softest nicest plush fur I've ever felt. It's like mink, but it's plush. Best of both worlds! I love the backing of it to work with, I can't say enough good things about Tissavel faux fur 
Sheree, mohair shouldn't fray continuously whilst you're sewing like that - it always frays a bit, but not so much that it would fray down to the stitching I find. Maybe you're sewing too close to the edge? I leave quite a wide seam when I sew mohair and alpaca.
Please share photos when you finish your mohair bear! Can't wait to see him/her! 
South AustraliaI don't know much about different furs but this is Alpaca Mohair from Gerry's that I am using and it is when I am doing the tacking or overcast stitch that it is fraying.
It has a very open weave back very similar to sacking.
I did a fake fur bear in the same pattern before attempting the real stuff but I'm not having so much fun with now and I was so looking forward to using it.
I never use fray stop when working with mohair (usually either Schulte or Helmbold) unless I accidentally clip into a seam allowance or something.
It does sound as if the piece you're working with has a very loose weave, so you might not need to use fray stop with other mohair fabrics.
Becky
I always use fray stop with mohair, but only in the areas where the pieces openings are, to stop any fraying when stuffing. Also if I have small pieces that need to keep their shape better for a precise fit, for example if I make paw pads with mohair instead of suede, or in the head gusset area. I sew by hand, so maybe that makes a difference, I don't know!
Now that I have read these posts, I got curious about Tissavel fur...maybe I should give it a try.....
GJOYful BearsSheree, is the alpaca you're using the "bone" colored alpaca? I have some in 15mm pile or something like that and it's from gerry's, and it is very open-weave backing and difficult to sew. I've had to sew with quite big stitches, it is very difficult to turn too it frays terribly.
Alpaca from Teddy's Bits is generally my favorite alpaca to use, but I got the bone colored piece from Gerry's to be a contrast on the face of a black bear cub - however it's not as easy to work with as the other alpaca I'm using. When I get back to that bear, I'll be fray stopping every seam because otherwise I can just see it unravelling everywhere lol.
gugu;s teddiesHello All
While we are on the subject of fabrics i have been useing Schulte Mohair, plus plush fabrics ,i am finding the mohair becomming to expensive the plush fabrics in SA are too stetchy please can any one recomend a supplier for the Tissavel, or any other plush fabrics. I have found a company called Imstuffedfur but i dont think its Tissavel, I really would appreciate help on new suppliers even though i will have to Import,Alpaca i have used not very fond off,The fraying i mix white fabric glue with a little water it does the trick
Thanks and have a great day
South AustraliaOh yes Gabriele it is the bone Alpaca from Gerry's, I am so relieved to hear that all alpaca isn't like this, it was really putting me off using Alpaca/Mohair. Thanks for making me feel better ( big bear hug )
If I fray stop all the edges before sewing I will Be O.K then???
GJOYful Bearsgugu's teddies ~ I'm about to send you a PM
Sheree ~ the bone colored alpaca is the only fur in general (not just alpaca, but fur in general) that I've ever used that I've had that problem with and it's driving me insane lol. I'm also glad it's not just me! And you can be sure, not all fabrics are like this. For me, this is a one-off fur problem. The other alpacas and mohair furs from Gerry's I've never had this problem with.
Big hugs to you - the first alpaca/mohair you've chosen to use happens to be a difficult backing one! If you fray stop the edges you should be fine, I've fray stopped mine and it's fine (so far).
If you are really worried you could line it with cotton or muslin, that will stop it from stretching when you stuff it. I haven't gotten passed sewing my bone alpaca yet, I had to put it aside a couple of months ago to work on custom orders. But I'll be interested in how I go stuffing it. As I said, it's on the face of a black bear cub I'm making and so it will need to be strong to hold an embroidered nose and all the sculpting I do.....
Have you mentioned the problem with the bone alpaca to Gerry's? I might next time I'm talking to them.... I wonder why it's different to the other alpaca furs they have.
The Littlest ThistleAs a tip, I apply the fray check BEFORE I cut out the bear, which means it's checked to the very edge without risk of contaminating the mohair by trying it afterwards. I'd normally only do openings, but have for a couple of small pieces of looser mohair, gone all the way round with the fray check.
If you have a fabric that has an open weave like that washing it can tighten up the weave. The other thing you can try is to sponge the backing with a weak solution of PVA..which is what fray stop is ...let it dry and then cut out the pattern.
I rarely have to use fray stop though...I find Tissavel backings are very firm and most mohairs seem to have good backings lately...maybe I ave just been lucky!!
Benson BearsIt sounds like Lynn has found some old stock, the backing on Alpaca furs hasn't been like that for years! When it first became available to bear makers it was awful to work with and you had to be really careful and persistent, but these days it is fantastic! It's my favourite fur to work with, I like natural fibres not the synthetics. So yes, use the PVA or water based leather adhesive, but steer clear of the "fraystop" which has a strong smell and dries really crispy, and also may eat you fabric over time since it seems to have some nasty chemical base. And also Katy's suggestion of using it before cutting out is perfect (though obviously you can't do that with this bear since it's already cut out) I would run a thin bead of glue around all your edges and then use your finger to work it into the backing, it will dry more quickly and also spreads it thin so it's very easy to sew through.
GJOYful BearsLinda, that's so interesting about the alpaca fur! Thanks for sharing. I had no idea that the open weave backing used to be the norm lol.
Linda, do you know any other way of fray stopping seams without using fray stop? The reason I resorted to fray stop is because I am allergic to most craft glues (which everyone seems to recommend for checking the seams), I don't know what it is about them but I always end up sneezing repeatedly and if I touch it I get blisters. This doesn't happen with fray stoppa, however I got my "Fray Stoppa" from a lady who makes it herself & it doesn't dry crispy..... so perhaps it has different "ingredients?" I just don't like the sound of fray stop eating the frabric away, that sounds awful & I'd hate to think something I'd made wasn't going to last at it's new home.
Also, if anyone would like to answer, what brand of leather glue do you recommend? Any kind of leather glue I've tried has been terrible and really, really awful to work with so I'd love to know of a different sort to what I've been finding.
desertmountainbearI have also found that Norton fabric from the now closed mill in England is looser weaved. But to me nothing compares to the dense piles of these fabrics. They are my favorite. I do use Fray check on these all the way around the cut edges.
Joanne
Benson BearsThe leather adhesive I use comes from Bear Essence in Victoria. It is PVA based so doesn't have a strong smell, I think it must have some sort of retarder added to it which keeps it flexible longer, it does eventually dry crisp. The only other way to stop seams fraying is to oversew them very carefully, but of course this is no good in areas where you want to open the seam allowance unless you oversew them separately. Also double sewing the seam helps, once from one side and then again from the other side.
TC Folk OriginalsI do the same as Katy and I always use the brand name Fray Check. Most of the time, it does not dry too hard, but if it does, I just gently maneuver the fabric around and it becomes more pliable. I also sew the seams twice, once from each side as does Linda. I love the alpacas, only used it for a couple of bears, but had no raveling problem and I really like the density and feel of the fur!
I use the Hi-tack brand of PVA which has no smell and dries clear......you can just dilute it with water to thin it to make a solution which you can just paint on before you cut out...
gugu;s teddiesHi Jenny
Without sounding stupid,who manufacters the PVA brand your talkng about,I am presuming this is paint?
I fray check every single seam I sew for added protection. It also gives me a chance inspect all my seams to make sure they are perfect before I turn and stuff them.
Bear Hugs,
Kim
