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Posts: 233I wonder if anyone could give me their opinion on glass noses ? I'm pondering on the possibility of giving them a go but a bit nervous as I know nothing about them !
Reason for trying is that I find embroidering noses when you're using longer fur a bit of a challenge !!
Can't wait for your opinions !
Nan 
Tigg BearsHi Nan,
I haven't used glass noses myself as I make miniatures but I've often wondered what they'd be like to use! It depends on the size of your bear, but another alternative is making a clay nose. I make clay noses for all my bears - I make up a batch of all different shapes and sizes and then keep then in my sewing box for when I want to use one!
Laura 
Posts: 233Good idea Laura have to say I don't know how to fix those on ? ! !
Nan 
Posts: 233I have to say this post should have gone on tips and techniques ! Could have sworn I put it on there , though I did have to post it twice before it came up ! Mmmm , gremlin in the works perhaps !! Ha ha
Tigg BearsWith clay noses, when you make them before you put them in the oven you make a metal loop and push it into the back, and them attach them much like you would a glass eye. I love them!
Laura
I have posted a tutorial on my blog explaining how I do polymer clay noses. If you are interested:
http://kaleideascope.blogspot.ch/2012/1 … orial.html
Not at all keen on glass noses...but that's only my opinion. I would mould a nose around a small eye ..try that...
Just like Francy did...
You can also make a nose from Apoxie Sculpt and let it set for a bit then poke a thickish needle through ti make two holes then take a needle threaded with waxed thread..sew the nose the the snout using a big stitch like you do with eyes. Then use a bit more apoxie sculpt to cover the holes. Put a bit of PVA just to position the nose...it's held on by the stitch...apoxie sculpt sticks to the fabric.
I like apoxie sculpt better than fimo because you can mould it in place while still malleable and it sets really hard...you can the sand it, polish it....
You get it from taxidermy supplies places.
Have you tried using that blue tape that hairdressers use to hold hair down with to hold the pile back while you sew?
Posts: 233Lots of food for thought there !! Brilliant advice ... thank you Laura Francy and Jenny all of you very clever and interesting ! I must admit I fancy moulding the epoxy it does cut a step out with the baking if I understand correctly !
Also I'm afraid I've never used blue tape Jenny but will have a look in Sally's I guess they may have it.
As I said I just have trouble mainly with the longer faux fur , well long fur in general I suppose , and I know I do need to practise embroidering noses to conquer the problem .. plus I just hate anything to beat me !!!
Thank you all again
Apoxie sculpt cuts out the baking...and you can use sandpaper to shape it ...it sticks well too...but I always sew it on with the big stitch...works great and the nose is rock solid.
Posts: 233Jenny , yes think I'll get me some Epoxy ! Found some on eBay !
Posts: 233Or even Apoxie !!
I think it is epoxy really...the brand i use is Apoxie Sculpt. You can get very small pots to try before you invest the substantial money in a big pot!
Posts: 233Yes Jenny I have noticed the smaller pots , will go for that option I think !
However , just got to master this nose embroidery, even if I come to prefer the Apoxie option ! So frustrating ... Will not give in ! Even though its costing a bomb buying more fur !!
What Are you stuffing the muzzle with?
Hi Little Nan, nose embroidery takes time and patience to master, but if you make sure you have trimmed the pile from the nose area as flat to the backing as possible that will help. Also, it's really important to make sure the nose is firmly stuffed to achieve a good shape ... also that the muzzle is stitched in carefully, so the chin seam is central. Using a suitable thickness of embroidery thread will also help, so for example, a little bear would suit perhaps a no.8 dmc or similar, whereas a medium to large bear would benefit from a no.5 thread. The trick to getting each thread to lay carefully is to make sure you keep an even tension and lay each thread carefully in place so that it lays flat and doesn't twist ... I always run my thumbnail across the thread to make sure it lays flat before I tighten the stitch. Also, if the muzzle is sewn in symmetrically, you should be able to use the tiny holes across the weft as a guide for your nose stitches. Oh and sometimes it's really helpful to use a sewing magnifyer (the kind that clip onto daylight lamps) overhead while you work to give a really clear view of your stitching.
If you find it too hard to stitch straight onto the muzzle, a good option is to cut a felt nose template to stitch over. I always use two layers of embroidery for my noses - word of advice ... if the bottom layer isn't perfect, don't expect the top one to be, lol!
Also, I find it's best to use a strong needle for nose embroidery, I use a 5" dolls needle for my bears and that works fine for my 8" to 32" bears.
I wrote this tutorial a few years ago, but it might offer a few tips: http://allbear.blogspot.co.uk/2007/03/a … -nose.html
Posts: 233Thanks for that Paula , certainly lots of factors for noses and plenty of things to potentially to go wrong !
Still it's something that has to be done and I think you hit on a particular point when you mentioned about the centre seam being straight under the gusset .
Also I must admit I have been wary of trimming too much fur away for the nose and so caused myself a problem with the thread getting stuck in the fur , mainly because I made that mistake once and don't want to repeat it !
One day I'll get it right !!
Posts: 233I'm stuffing the muzzle with wood wool Jenny cos I remember you advising it before. However maybe I need to stuff it harder , well that's what I plan to do next time !! The head I stuff really hard maybe too much so sometimes but the nose I did notice once could have done with a bit more.
Also I use a glovers needle as you recommended and that definitely helped. I think it's just me I've made a lot I mistakes so now I dread tackling another ... so being nervous , set myself up to make more mistakes ... wonder if wine would help ... mmm ?
Try putting a stitch through the woodwool to hold it in the nose firmly ...you take it out once the nose has been stitched. Use a template to stitch over and make sure you really pluck the nose area clean of the pile...I use my pliers to pluck the area. I make sure its really fluff free before I start.
Posts: 233Oh right ...Jenny I wouldnt have thought of that one but yes can see how that would help! As I said I think I'm a bit reluctant to get rid of enough fur because I did it once through ' guessing ' the nose to be in slightly the wrong position and of course when you have to sew through fur things do get tangled .
However I have altered my pattern a bit now so hopefully will get the nose in right place !
Good grief is there anyone on here who has made so many mistakes as I have ! I do feel a dumbo especially over such basic things !! 
Thank you yet again Jenny
Posts: 233Oh right ...Jenny I wouldnt have thought of that one but yes can see how that would help! As I said I think I'm a bit reluctant to get rid of enough fur because I did it once through ' guessing ' the nose to be in slightly the wrong position and of course when you have to sew through fur things do get tangled .
However I have altered my pattern a bit now so hopefully will get the nose in right place !
Good grief is there anyone on here who has made so many mistakes as I have ! I do feel a dumbo especially over such basic things !! Thank you yet again Jenny
I used to put a test eye where I wanted the nose to be. Then you can mark where you need to pluck the fur from...
Posts: 233Will do that !!! Thank you
Nan
PennsylvaniaSince I am a Bear collector, not a Bear maker, I can't give detailed advice on how to make a Bear's nose but I think I can offer some insight from the point of view of the person who adopts a Bear.
Unless the Bear's style warrants, I think a sewn nose is nicer. It feels nicer to the touch and when you hug the Bear. Since collectible Bears are individually made, a sewn nose adds a mark of distinction because it imparts a sense of craftsmanship on the part of the Bearmaker. It creates a sense of value that says, "The person who made this Bear cared enough to sew the nose."
Some fashionable Bears have hard noses and they look nice but it all depends. If the Bear is going to a child, personally, I would not recommend a hard nose. Safety, you know.
About making the nose... One thing I like about this website is the "Cute Animal Pictures." It might be "cute" or "whimsical" or just plain silly but I think there's method to the madness. People who make Bears and plush animals can use those pictures for inspiration and reference. Bearmakers can look at those pictures to see real animals and how they look in different situations. They can also look back at previous pictures (using the forum search feature) to see details on how real animals are "put together," so to speak. If you want to know how a kitten's ears look, just use the pictures as a guide.
Also, if you want to know how a Bear's nose ought to look, you can use an animal picture as a reference.
So... How might one sew a Bear's nose? Maybe looking at a dog's or a cat's nose can give you a clue?
You guys were talking about how to trim the fur in order to get a smooth, even transition between the sewn part and the plush part. How about looking at a real dog's nose, close up?
Notice how the hair around the edge of the fleshy part of his nose is shorter and almost bare? If you look closely, there's even a little rim around the nose where it's completely bald. There's a possible answer for you. You could trim the fur on the nose just a tiny bit larger than where you plan to sew on the nose. If you did that, you might be able to make a nose that looks realistic enough to look right.
Of course, this all depends on what the Bear's style is going to be and how the Bearmaker wants the Bear to look but this is one way to do it.
I do a lot of 3-D computer graphics. When I want to know how model an object on the computer, I often look at a real person, animal or object as reference. The suggestion I made comes out of that experience. Maybe the way I model my pictures isn't exactly like real life but using a real life reference makes it easier to decide how I want to make things look.
BTW: That's not my trick. Lots of other people do the same thing. I got the idea from watching those "Making of..." documentaries about the way they create 3-D movies at Pixar. (The creators of "Toy Story.") I figure, if the trick is good enough for the guys at Pixar, it's good enough for me. Go ahead and use it if you think it will help.
Posts: 233Hi 'Us Bears ' sorry I don't know your name !
Thank you for your input and views , it's good to hear the opinions of someone on the other side of things.
I think you make many valid points and the picture of the dogs nose certainly gives food for thought !
Certainly a hand embroidered nose definitely gives that nice ' cuddly ' feel to a bear.
However I'm not sure that it takes more skill and craftsmanship than a hand made moulded nose that I've seen members display on this site .
Ultimately of course it's down to taste and preference , and as long as the buyer is happy ...
Nan
