Skip to main content

Banner Sponsors

Intercal Trading Group - Your mohair supplier
Tedsby - Handmade teddy bears and other cute stuffed animals. Hundreds of teddy artists from all over the world and thousands of OOAK creations.

lil*minx Lil Minx Bears & Dolls
Michigan
Posts: 2

Hi!  I've been out of the teddy bear making business for too many years.  Back then, I used to use plastic discs with a washer and lock on (supposedly) cap.

I am going to be making real fur bears.  I want my bears to be ultra-posable, so the joints aren't too stiff, but not so wobbly that they lay there like a dead fish.  The bears I will make will be in the 4"-5" range.  Does anybody have any suggestions as to what I should use for joints, as well as where I can purchase them?  I live in the middle of nowhere, so I will probably have to purchase off the net.

Also, I'm going to be making some miniature bears with upholstery velvet.  I've always just sewed the joints on.  Are there any jointing materials small enough for 1"-3" miniatures?

Thank you so much for any help you can give me!

BearBottoms 'Bear' Bottoms Originals
Ft. Bragg, NC
Posts: 2,465

Hi, um... boo?  bear_original bear_original

For your wee joints, unless you would like to string joint, may I suggest Sassy Bears and Fabrics?  She's got a wonderful assortment of just about darn near anything you could need for little bears!  www.sassybearsandfabrics.com 

It's nice to meet you!  I don't get into the new members area too much, what with everything else going on in TT and here at 'Bear' Bottoms Originals, but it's wonderful to see new faces!

Kimberly W.

DebbieD Posts: 3,540

Boo, I think you'll find when you very first start with real fur, you'll want your bear to be 8 to 10 inches.  It will give you a chance to find your feet with the real fur, as 4 to 5 inches can be ... well, a bear to turn.

For my joints, I prefer the locknut hardboard discs.  I love them because I can get them as tight or as loose as I like.  Although you can also use cotter pins for a 'wobbly' effect.  I've only ever done string jointing, the locknut, hardboard discs and the plastic 'safety' joints you describe.  Intercal sells the hardware for making the hardboard locknut joints http://www.intercaltg.com/catalog/suppl … #hardboard

Amanda Pandy Potter Bears
Staffordshire, UK
Posts: 1,864

I would go with Sassy's too for the minis. I use the tiny cotterpins and find them loads better than string jointing. Plenty of pictures when you have done some! :hug:

Dilu Posts: 8,574

Intercal has wonderful teeeeny tiiiiny discs and cotterpins that I use for my minis, 3" and under...they are great. and the cotter pins turn with no problems.

For the larger fellas I use nut and bolts.


The small discs go down as small as 1/4 inch

take a look at this link:  http://www.intercaltg.com/catalog/suppl … fiberboard


dilu

minkbears Vintage Mink Bears by Kathy Myers
Lakewood CA
Posts: 1,387
Website

Boo~
I totally agree with Debbie, a little larger real fur bear might be less frustrating if you are just getting back into bear making. I personally prefer to use cotter pin joints...my joints are not super tight because vintage minks can be fragile. Crown joints will be tighter than butterfly joints. I order my supplies from Intercal and Edinburgh. I also prefer using the T-cotter pins.

I look forward to seeing your creations.

~Kathy

Board footer

Powered by FluxBB

Banner Sponsors


Johnna's Mohair Store - Specializing in hand dyed mohair and alpaca
Past Time Bears - Artist bears designed and handcrafted by Sue Ann Holcomb