Hi guys, just needing some advice. I've been making my bears for about a year now and have been using sassy fur for the smaller 5_6" ones and mohair for the larger ones. I've got absolutely loads of really nice faux fur from mohair teddy bear supplies in the UK but am really struggling with it! It's kind of fraying on the seams especially when I've stuffed them and trying to close the seams is a nightmare!
Should I be lining the fur or putting fray stop on the edges? It's given such great results from scissor sculpting the little cheeks that I want to use more of it but I'm finding it so hard to work with! Any help would be greatly appreciated!xx
The backing fabric for faux fur really varies, from stretchy knits that you should most probably line, to nicely woven fabric that is as stable as mohair backing - and several variations in between. If you're having trouble with fraying, your idea of treating the edges with fray stop sounds like a good one.
It also took me some time to get used to working with faux (and one near disaster when I wanted to re-open a leg and couldn't locate the seam), but I've developed a pretty good relationship with it now. As you say, it's wonderful for scissor-sculpting, and so, so soft.
Thanks for the reply Becky! Im going to have another go and use the fray stop on the edges. I actually thought Faux fur would be easier than Mohair to work with! As you say it will probably get easier just wanting to make sure I'm not missing anything i should be doing when using it! xx
I like using Aleene's Stop Fraying. It's white, not clear like Fray Check. I squeeze a little of it on a piece of plastic or something, then use a toothpick to gently apply it to the cut edges of a fabric that wants to fray. I apply more to the areas where I will close a seam.... not just the edge - so it gives the fabric added strength.
Hello, I see this post is several years old but I am currently dealing with a mohair backing that is fraying. I've read about overcast stitching or zig zag stitching each piece of the bear to stop the fraying, using Fray Check and now I've come upon this post and am wanting to know more about this technique. I've never worked with Solvy Water Soluble Stabilizer before and am curious to know how big of a piece of stabilizer do you use with how much water? Also, what is the consistency, is it similar to Fray Check or thicker? Thank you in advance!
Hello TJ, I use Solvy on the newer Tissavel fabrics because the back is rather stretchy. There should be directions on the package. I usually cut a yard and dissolve it in about a cup of water. I usually paint in on the drawn pattern on the back of the fabric before I cut. I leave it dry and then cut. I does not remove all the stretch, but it does help stop those ends from fraying and it makes the fabric more stable.
I have returned to bear-making recently, and am trying some new patterns with some cheap faux fur. I tried Fray Check on my first one, which worked great, but it also transferred the ink that I used to outline the pieces further onto the fur. As this is a bear for my own collection, it was okay, but now, I am making bears for friends as gifts. The Sulky Solvy worked wonderfully! I was completely surprised at how well the very stretchy backing stayed put. Thank you so much for this suggestion!