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VallierBearsHello everyone,
I am still on making my first bear, My Joints should arrive today so we can get moving some more!
I would post pics of my bear so far but my brother has taken my Digi cam cable with him to go live in canada on accident! Duh!
Am I wrong in saying you can joint a bear with all cotterpin joints? I've been reading alot of places that it needs a "head bolt"?
How do you sew the head together when the bolt is in place? A simple running stitch, Gathered knotted and sewn back on it's self a few times, That is all?
Can you over stuff? I think I may have over stuffed the head, It's nice a first, Still has some give though...?
Trimming fur, I'm using a synthetic on a woven background, I don't want to pluck it as the weaving isn't at all nice compared with Mohair... Where do I trim?
Do you place eyes on the bear before you attach head to the body? Seams logical but places i've been reading have explained more or less doing it last.
How do you "curl" cotter pins? I have seen people curl them and seen people "Crown" them... What is the best way?
For weight, Do I just pour the beads into the feet and hands? Or do I stuff a layer onto the fabric and then pour them in between the layer? I was thinking the beads would be pretty lumpy and feel pretty awful without some kind of cushioning first?
How many strands of embroidery floss do you use? When I used to cross sticth most requested 2 strands from each length? How many for the nose and mouth?
I think that's about "ALL" :crackup: of my questions...
Hope yo are all well,
Thank you very much
Richy~
PottersHouse BearsWell I think you will find that there are various answers to your question. You will eventually find a method that suits you best. You can joint a bear using only cotter pins. When I make an antique style bear I only do cotter pins. The joints will be looser, but I think that gives the bear an "old, well loved" feel. As far as stuffing, if you still have some give you probably have not overstuffed the head. Again, this can vary according to what you want out of the finished product. You may want a soft, squishy bear or something that is firm. I place the eyes on my bears before attaching the head. The first thing I do is to completely finish the head then I move on the the body and limbs. I normally do not do a whole lot of trimming. If the fur is long, you may need to trim around the eyes and nose. Some people do extensive scissor sculpting, I have not attempted this yet. For weight I place pellets in a small sack that I then put in the body with the stuffing. I have heard of people putting beads in the feet though. I hope I have been of some help to you. But again, you will in time find what works for you. Please let us see pictures of your bear as soon as you get your cable. But most importantly ......HAVE FUN!
Country BearsHi Richy,
Firstly welcome to the bear making world!! :hug:
If you look above, you'll see a drop down box labelled 'Library' - there's tons of tips and techniques in there!!
Have you got any books about bear making?? I thoroughly recommend the Bear Making Encyclopaedia by Ann Stephens ans Alicia Merrett (I think!) You will certainly find the answer to many of your questions in there.
In answer to your questions, and just my opinion as different bearmakers do different things,
1) Yes you can cotter pin all bear joints, many bear makers use nut and bolt joints too.
2) I gather stitch the raw neck edge then sew lots of stitches to secure
3) I think stuffing is all a matter of personal choice - I think the only time you can overstuff is when you burst the stitching!! :crackup:
4) No I wouldn't pluck the synthetic, I would try trimming the muzzle for now, beware for lots of fur!!!
5) Eyes can be placed on the bear before or after the bear is assembled - me personally, depends if I remembered or not!! 
6) I crown bend my cotter pins, I find it gives a tighter joint.
7) When weighting bears, some put beads etc directly into bear, like me, and some fill little pockets with the weighting material and then place into the bear.
8) I don't use embroidery floss for noses, I use Perle Cotton, in different sizes and colours. I have used embroidery floss in the past, but get a better result from the Perle.
I hope this helps a bit, remember it's just the way I do it, and every one has their 'way' - you will too soon!! :dance:
Have lots of fun!!! 
Ruby Mountain BearsI have only made two larger bears and used cotter pins for those although I didn't like how loose the neck joint was when I finished.
As for me I always finish the head before I attach to the body. It is easier to tweek the eyes and ears before assembling. Becareful trimming the synthetic if you don't like the backing. you can't put it back on once its off!! :crackup:
I usually make mini bears so cotter pins work well for that. as for adding weight I have used and this works great even in mini's a pair of nylons and make a little pouch of bb's that can be placed in feet and rump for weight.
LutonI much prefer a nut & bolt joint as you can control the level of tightness your joint is !!!
Hugs
Claire
Am I wrong in saying you can joint a bear with all cotterpin joints? I've been reading alot of places that it needs a "head bolt"?
--- You can use all cotterpins if you want. Bolts are used with larger bears or for bears that need extra-tight joints. Bolts used with locknuts tend to start tighter and stay tighter than cotterpin joints. But that's usually only important in larger bears. I find I can't get a big bear to stand if I use cotter pins in the legs; I have to use bolts. Others who are better at jointing with cotter pins might tell you differently!
How do you sew the head together when the bolt is in place? A simple running stitch, Gathered knotted and sewn back on it's self a few times, That is all?
--- I run a gathering stitch around the neck opening using a double strand of upholstery thread. Sinew would also work as it's extra strong. Then I insert the disk with pin or bolt and pull to gather the stitching aroudn the disk. I take quite a few stitches to secure the gather and if necessary, even go back and ladder stitch any places I think need to be tighter or closer together. I don't think you can overdo this part and it's important since the head is probably the part of the bear most likely to be repositioned, so the stitching which closes it has to be tight!
Can you over stuff? I think I may have over stuffed the head, It's nice a first, Still has some give though...?
--- You can probably overstuff stretchy-back fabrics but I don't think you can overstuff a firmly woven mohair. I stuff my heads REALLY hard.
Trimming fur, I'm using a synthetic on a woven background, I don't want to pluck it as the weaving isn't at all nice compared with Mohair... Where do I trim?
--- I just finished a synthetic bear and trimmed the muzzle down to about 1/4 inch, which allowed for a change in the length of the fur (the rest of the fur was about three inches long) but didn't take the muzzle "down to the backing." My backing, like yours, wasn't pretty enough to showcase. I do my trimming with clippers or scissors, depending on what I'm clipping.
Do you place eyes on the bear before you attach head to the body? Seams logical but places i've been reading have explained more or less doing it last.
--- I stuff the head, close and joint it, and stick it on the open top of a canning jar and just STARE at it. That helps me place the nose which I embroider and add a mouth to. THEN I add eyes.
How do you "curl" cotter pins? I have seen people curl them and seen people "Crown" them... What is the best way?
--- People either use a "crown" or a "snail" curl for cotter pins. Many think snails are easier to create but crowns are tighter over time. Check here for a diagram and some discussion of the pros and cons of each type: http://www.teddy-talk.com/viewtopic.php?pid=7200#p7200
For weight, Do I just pour the beads into the feet and hands? Or do I stuff a layer onto the fabric and then pour them in between the layer? I was thinking the beads would be pretty lumpy and feel pretty awful without some kind of cushioning first?
--- If you use large beads they are lumpy especially through a less dense, thinner fabric. I put large beads (bb's) that I use for weighting the belly into a nylon knee-high stocking, then tie it closed, turn it to create a second "skin" layer, and tie it again. Easy, cheap, and effective. If I use large beads in feet I lay down a thin layer of stuffing first. When I use glass beads, I make sure the bear's fabric is woven tightly enough to accommodate them and then pour them directly into the feet, etc. I don't use glass beads for weight in larger bears.
How many strands of embroidery floss do you use? When I used to cross sticth most requested 2 strands from each length? How many for the nose and mouth?
--- I use the full six strands of floss for nose and mouth. Straight from the packaging! I use perle cotton in the same way.
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There are twenty bajillion ways to do all of these things and I hope others will continue to chime in with their own unique methods. Just find what works for you and for your particular size and style of bear and don't be too concerned with doing things "right." There IS no "right!"
Have fun!
VallierBearsAh, Wish I new about the head bolts now... Darn I guess I will know for next time that is for sure!
Thank you all so much for your help, I'm glad I have somewhere to fall back on with suck wonderfull people!
Richy~
Posts: 8,574What great questions-and there are a hundred answers for each question....
Try them all and figure out what works best for you....
Some of the answers will be dependant on what size kritter you want to make....I love cotterpins for mini bears and gollies, less than 6", after that I like to switch over to bolts.
And i have been known to use both depending on what the little dickens was going to be doing.
I sort of wait till the kritter is finished to determine where the eyes go....AND i always wait till the very end to do a mouth.
(Gollies have this certain, J'en sais pas, but once they have a mouth they never stop yammering at you, well, unless their little mouths are full of chocolate.)
i confess TeddyWorld, I bribe my guys with chocolate.
the most important thing?
Enjoy the process....make what you love, learn as you go, and simply enjoy the process.
Gollyhugs
dilu
Jare Hares & BearsWhen trimming the fur on faces, I have found that take quick short snips that I can get the look I want. I have better control. I figured this out after watching shows about hairdressers. Watch how they cut hair. That has helped me.
I prefer lock nuts & bolts. You can use set screws in the neck, I find that I like these as I can complete stuff the head and then attach it to the body without having to have an opening in the head other than the neck.
I like cotter pins if I am going for the really loose and floppy feel. Might try that with new designs for next year.
There really is no right or wrong waht to make teddy bears, just do what you like.
Country BearsThere really is no right or wrong waht to make teddy bears, just do what you like.
Totally agree Jared, although I still wonder sometimes if I'm doing stuff correctly!! :doh: 
