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psichick78 Flying Fur Studios
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,073

Hey guys, here's my question for the day.
How do you guys deal with seam allowances??
Here's my problem. I have to draw the seam allowance on my bear pieces. Helps me sew straight on the machine and by hand. Otherwise, I get all out of control. But this takes alot of time, to measure out my 1/4 inch of whatever. Almost as much time as trimming the seams take.
So what do you guys do about this?? Or are you just really good at sewing a straight line?? I was thinking, to NOT include a seam allowance on my patten pieces so when I trace it out, that would be my sewing line. Then I could just add the seam when I was cutting it out. I imagine then I wouldnt have to cut out so carefully that way either.
Am I making sense?? I hope so.
But I thought I would ask you guys 1st, I'm sure you have some wisdom to share.
Thank you
Heather

Shelli SHELLI MAKES
Chico, California
Posts: 9,939
Website

Shelli Retired Help Advisor, Banner Sponsor

Interesting question!

I like to machine sew and totally stink at keeping to 1/4 inch, especially since I use alligator clips (as opposed to pins) to hold my pieces firmly stuck together, so I can't use the "normal" foot, and the fabric is therefore hard to "eyeball" at a 1/4" seam allowance.

For that reason, I ALWAYS use a Micron 05 permanent acid free pen to draw in my allowances on my gusset and all pads (foot and hand.)  I eyeball it and do a good job of keeping to 1/4".  For the rest of the pieces, though, any deviation from 1/4" I might accidentally make, due to a lack of drawn allowances, isn't noticeable at all.  So I only do gusset and pads.

Hope this helps!

NancyAndFriends Posts: 1,153

Heather, you can make a perfect seam allowance just using your pressure foot and the machine needle.
First let me ask you if you are able to move your needle from side to side on your machine?
nanc

psichick78 Flying Fur Studios
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,073

Nanc, I am able to move my needle side to side on my machine. I always just have in right in the middle.

Shelli, thanks for you advice. I thought the slightest deviation would show up on the bear. Glad to know it doesn't. I just find myself obsessing about making everything 100% perfect. And I WILL continue to draw the seam allowance on the parts I sew by hand and the head.

Heather

NancyAndFriends Posts: 1,153

Heather...if you keep your needle in the center position and line the cut edge of your fabric up with the far right outside edge of your pressure foot...lower your needle and you will see that you have an exact 1/4 inch.

that makes it so easy because you can just drive your fabric around, watching nothing but the outside edge of your fabric meeting up with the right edge of the pressure foot.

You can find your other seam allowances with the marks on the pressure plate of your sewing machine. 
Also move your needle to different positions and experiment to see what size seam you will get.

I hope this makes sense.  If not let me know and I will take a picture for you.  It is so easy once you know how to use your machine to your best advantage.

Let me know,
nanc........

SueAnn Past Time Bears
Double Oak, Texas
Posts: 21,915

SueAnn Help Advisor, Banner Sponsor

Ditto to Nancy's advice!  I think all sewing machines have 1/4" mark on the throatplate.  Look on your machine and see if it has line marks and numbers at 1/4" intervals.

Dilu Posts: 8,574

Heather


Yes, to the above, but on the off chance that your machine is a wonderful old Japanese model from the 60's and 70's and you have sewen a scrap piece and it isn't as exact as you would like or perhaps you want to sew a mini bear...try your zipper foot.  have the foot along the edge of the fabric and the needle on the inside....it often works well.  Quilters do this all the time, where a quarter of an inch can make or break the look of a block.

When I make my templates, after developing a paper bear that satisfies me, I add the seam allowance that I want on the template-  then I never have to worry about sizing.

However on mini bears the line I draw off the template IS the sewing line.  This leaves me free to cut larger pieces, and sometimes the pieces dont resemble their final destination at all.  Thhis in turn gives me extra fabric to hold on to while sewing. 

Like Shelli I am almost entirely a machine sewer-and am always trying out ideas to make life faster and easier.


Dilu

shantell Apple Dumpling Designs
Willamette Valley Oregon
Posts: 3,128

Heather....ditto the above regarding the sewing machine...the other thing I did (well not on my new machine I haven't) but I took a ruler and drew the 1/4 inch line all the way down the front of my machine that way I had a bigger line to follow instead of the one only on the footplate.  You can also layer pieces of tape to create a kinda of edge.  I do however, check my needle position before starting any new project...I found it can get off a smidge from just normal wear and tear.

On the smaller bears that I've done I actually do a smaller than 1/4 seam allowance which I read in Nancy Tillberg's book...less bulk when trying to turn those tiny tiny pieces....this is where the frey check really comes in handy for me at least.   

After awhile you get where you can be pretty accurate with "eye balling" a 1/4 inch...but I do double check myself from time to time.

Have fun...and there is also nothing wrong with just marking it on your pieces ahead of time...which I might try anyway!!!

Shantell

Donna Donna's Duin Bruins
Burbank, CA
Posts: 900

I don't worry about the 1/4 inch seam allowance, I use my pressure foot as my guide.  If I am doing a mini, I move my needle position so I am still using my foot as the guide.  When I design a new pattern I use my sewing machine to add the seam allowance.  Just draw each of your bear parts on paper and then take them to the sewing machine and stitch around each piece you now have a perfect seam allowance.  I learned that little trick from Armella Dana.
Donna

MerBear MerBear Originals
Brockville, Ontario
Posts: 1,540

AS you know, I only hand sew my bears. On the mini's I often use a micro pen and draw a seam allowance, otherwise I eyeball it. If you go to a quilter's shop - probably Out-of-Hand - you can get a quilters tool to mark the seam allowance. I think it's a round flat circle that you pencil fits in and you can draw along the pattern. But as I know you mainly machine sew - the easiest would be to use thin masking tape on the thoat plate of your sewing machine to mark the seam allowance line.
Marion

psichick78 Flying Fur Studios
Calgary, Alberta, Canada
Posts: 3,073

Thanks you guys!!! Great tips.
So what I've learned is that I'm gonna mark my machine at 1/4", but still draw out my seam allowances on the head and footpads (the parts I sew by hand)
And Marion, I'm soo gonna go to Out Of Hand and look for that tool. Any excuse to go there is a good one!!!
ANd thanks Nanc. I can totally picture what you are trying to tell me. Makes sense and I have no idea why I haven't thought of that before.
Off to teddy making now
Heather

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