Banner Sponsors
For artists and collectors sponsored by Intercal...your mohair supplier and Johnna's Mohair Store
Posts: 65I'm new to bearmaking (less than a year) but have been a spinner and dyer for 20 odd years, and first came across (and tried) needlefelting a few years ago, long before I started with teddies.
As a spinner who's worked with fibres - not just wool and silk but also mohair and alpaca, and others, for many years, I come with a bit of baggage. I have seen some amazing looking bits of beary needlefelting but as a spinner, everything I know tells me needlefelting isn't 'stable'. Also, that mixing fibres causes abrasion - the stronger fibre in a mix will abrade (break up) the weaker, over time. So felting wool onto mohair on a cotton backing may look good temporarily, but over time basically should fall apart - if everything I know as a textile artist, is right. Which is what would put me off needlefelting a face - as a spinner (and someone who has needlefelted wool on its own) in the past, I know that isn't a lasting thing. And yet people are using it a lot all of a sudden in this new context of bears. A fully needlefelted toy would not be stable either and also has other problems as it's not easily cleanable - but I can see it would have some integrity, as a fabric, even if it can't stand up to a lot. (I'm thinking of the Japanese lady who wrote the recent book on needlefelting toy dogs - and what happened to her models they showed on TV at Cruifts! Not pretty!) But I don't see how it can be anything other than temporary when attached to other fibres - especially ones as strong as cotton/mohair. What I'm trying to say is - how do artists who do a lot of needlefelted features on a mohair teddy know it will last? What do you do to it to make sure you won't end up with a faceless teddy in a few years? (Nightmare scenario 
).
As a spinner I have a houseful of merino and other good felting wool so this is of interest!
Jane Perala Designs Ltd.When I took an online class with Judi Paul, she had us sew on the first base of wool to anchor it, and the subsequent layers then adheared to that anchored base. Hope that answers your question. Plus, these are not toys meant to be played with (and abused) by children, so should hold up a lot better without that added stress.
Jane P.
LuxembearsJane is right. 
Needle felted details on bears are not intened to be toys but rather fine adult collectibles. You would'nt take a fine china doll and pull on it's hair and the same goes for fine art bears. I sew on achors with prefelted peices and felt these deeply into a mohair head.
Also like Jane mentioned , then the face is built up in layers of firmly felted wool. I myslef have tried to pull off felted faces just to see how durable it is and how well the fibers mesh together and I could not pull apart the felted fibers. They mesh and bond together very strongly.
Now, having said that, I do have a few bears that my children play and sleep with that I have needle felted muzzles onto. They have had these since 2004 and nothing has happened. They are just fine and intact. 100 years from now...well...who really knows but I believe if you make a good qaulity solid bear it will last a person's lifetime.
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)As a spinner who's worked with fibres - not just wool and silk but also mohair and alpaca, and others, for many years, I come with a bit of baggage.
I have seen some amazing looking bits of beary needlefelting but as a spinner, everything I know tells me needlefelting isn't 'stable'.
Well, Penny, this is just my opinion, but I'm known for very firmly (as in rock hard) needling. The only reason I can think of for a piece being considered unstable is the way the fiber is added to the structure and the lack of continued needling, until it firms up to the degree that you want.
There is absolutely nothing wrong with soft sculpture, but it should be labeled as such, because handling it is likely to move some of the fiber around and the shape of your sculpture will change.
The number of hours (or days/weeks) spent on any piece is what will determine how stable it is. For seasonal/decorative work that will be on display for short periods of time and then put into storage until next year
it's fine to not needle it rock hard. Pieces that will be handled will hold up to almost anything if they are firmly needled.
Knowing how to control the degree of firmness is what sets you aside as a master over your NFing. Too many ppl that I've taught that have had past experience stop needling when a particular line or curve appears in their work. I ask them to press on the spot with a finger. Those that do know that they're going to change that point by pressing on it; I teach them how to build the foundation so that nothing will change when they're finished.
The baggage you bring is a good thing, as you're familiar with the hundreds of different breeds' fiber available, and recognize them for their various qualities. You wouldn't create a sweater out of Navajo-Churro and wouldn't put Merino or Cormo on the floor as a rug. You're already ahead of the game and don't know it - yet!
Just as some breeds wet-felt (traditional style of felting/fulling) better than others (or not at all, some also needle better than others. And there is no correlation between the ability of each to wet- or dry-felt. Most breeds react differently under the two different styles of felting.
Also, that mixing fibres causes abrasion - the stronger fibre in a mix will abrade (break up) the weaker, over time.
I disagree with this. If any fiber breaks it had an inherent weakness in it due to other reasons. As a spinner/weaver you already know about those. Needling different breeds together has no bearing on the breakage; only fibers with weaknesses and needles with cut barbs rather than formed barbs will break fiber.
The only time I ever had a problem with mixed fibers was in a class where the group leader insisted on using her fiber for the class. It was a mix of noils giving specks of multi-color throughout the main wool fiber, but it also had 1/4" shreds of colored paper in it. When the needle hit those paper bits I shuddered. It was like running into a concrete wall. Beginners were so discouraged; they just couldn't get the needles to penetrate and compress the wool together. From that time on I made it a rule that I supply the fiber for my classes, whether in person or online.
So felting wool onto mohair on a cotton backing may look good temporarily, but over time basically should fall apart - if everything I know as a textile artist, is right. Which is what would put me off needlefelting a face - as a spinner (and someone who has needlefelted wool on its own) in the past, I know that isn't a lasting thing.
And yet people are using it a lot all of a sudden in this new context of bears.
In regards to this type of fiber mixing, you mean the needle penetration through the cotton backing. It's true that some damage will occur to the cotton, as it has different (non-springy, short fibers) qualities than wool. But in
In Needle felting through another fabric, whether it's been stuffed or is a flat piece of fabric, the strength comes from the fibers that are driven through the background and into the stuffing inside or into the rest of the fibers thrust through the fabric. These entangle and become as solid on the back as the front. If you were to NF a design on a canvas bag or denim jacket, the best result is to have as much fiber on the inside as on the outside. The fabric is sandwiched between these 2 sides and can't go anywhere!
If it has been more softly needled, I'd agree that the edges may begin to lift, exposing part of the sandwiched backing fabric. Good techniques rule that the edges are paid special attention so that this will not happen. There are those that, even though their wool is thoroughly attached both front and back, still take needle and thread and sew down the edges completely around all NFed ares.
A fully needlefelted toy would not be stable either and also has other problems as it's not easily cleanable - but I can see it would have some integrity, as a fabric, even if it can't stand up to a lot.
Well, toys are in a different category than Fiber Art work, which is what we do. Toys are meant for children and are usually created and/or finished with a session in the washer & dryer to completely full them. From then on they can be washed & dried and are completely safe in children's hands.
All Art work should be accompanied by a notice of unsuitability for children.
(I'm thinking of the Japanese lady who wrote the recent book on needlefelting toy dogs - and what happened to her models they showed on TV at Cruifts! Not pretty!)
I know about the book (have a copy) but not what happened to exhibiting her work on TV. Did they collapse? Become mis-shapen during shipping? With the set-up handling?
All of these can happen to work that is soft sculpted.
It's amazing to me the number of ppl who ship their needlefelting in envelopes. Perhaps everyone is too polite to tell them that they arrive squashed totally flat...
I don't have the book at hand this moment but I purchased a copy to check out how NFing was being taught. I do remember not being impressed with the amount of needling done....
But I don't see how it can be anything other than temporary when attached to other fibres - especially ones as strong as cotton/mohair.
What I'm trying to say is - how do artists who do a lot of needlefelted features on a mohair teddy know it will last? What do you do to it to make sure you won't end up with a faceless teddy in a few years? (Nightmare scenario)
Because every needle thrust pushes more fibers through the fabric and entangles them on the backside with others already pushed through... or already there as stuffing, even if the stuffing is polyfill. Eventually enough wool is behind the backing to entangle with each other.
If you have ever tried to pull half-needled fiber apart with hand cards, you'll know that it's an impossible task. They just will not un-engage from each other so you end up saving those pieces as the firm core inside your next project!
As an aside that's one of the best features of NFing: Nothing is wasted. I first thought about this when my Mom was making my bridal veil. In 1964, the lace I cost cost $50 a yard. I had yds and bare inches were wasted! But it made me realize that every square inch had equal value - until the fabric was cut.;
Then the remnant had zero value.
But, in NFing there is NO waste, as every single fiber gets recycled into the core or base of the next project. Neat!!!
As a spinner I have a houseful of merino and other good felting wool so this is of interest!
Merino makes a fabulous spinning and wet felting fiber. As a prospective dry needling fiber, it's not as easy to work with. That's what I meant about the qualities that make something an excellent candidate for wet felting don't always present the same facility in dry or needled work. Working/needling it for as long as you can possibly work on it, Merino will never become as firm as many other breeds. The surface will become very smooth, but "the nature of the beast" is that you'll be able to fold it back on itself (it will snap back up tho!) because is very softness don't allow the fibers to create a hard lock as some of the other fine and medium grade breeds do.
That's not necessarily what one may be looking for for a project.
The best way to approach NFing is to choose the project, choose the breeds that will give you the end result and then choose the needle sizes that work best with that breed.
And an equally soft fiber, that practically felts itself with handling, and doesn't stand much handing in advance of needling, is Cormo. Along with Polypay, Polworth and several other fine breeds, you achieve the same result with less expense and easier working.
I know that putting the stamp of using *Merino* on something has a particular cache, but it doesn't mean that it's the best for NFing, at least not w/o putting yourself in for much additional work.
We'll be watching for your comments on your experiments into this Wonderful World!!! I LV your avatar - is that you???
Pasadena, CAHi Penny!
Glad we have another needle felter! I really enjoy it although I am just learning!
Hello to Bobbie as well!
You say:
Needling different breeds together has no bearing on the breakage; only fibers with weaknesses and needles with cut barbs rather than formed barbs will break fiber.
I have been able to find Fosters that I think you mentioned have formed barbs. Unfortunately I'm not able to find any in a 42 only up to a 40. Anyhow, I'm wondering how do I know if my fibers are breaking inside as I felt? Does it have a different feeling or will the fibers pull out with the needle?
Stacey
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)Stacey, as an aside, I carry 42 with the price of 40¢ per needle any size any amount to fellow listees. Postage in the States is a $ for up to several dozen needles.
Someone once posted that the more she needled, the more her work was falling apart. She thought that the needles were cutting the fibers.
Anyhow, I'm wondering how do I know if my fibers are breaking inside as I felt? Does it have a different feeling or will the fibers pull out with the needle?
The Foster needles have formed edges, in that ALL of the edges are beveled. There are needle manufacturers that cut the barb into the edges with other machines, which result in an edge that looks just like a stick of wood would, if you start whittling on it and make a 45° cut into it. The barb is what's called a kick-up: most of it now projects beyond the shaft of the needle's sides. Wear & tear from the fiber wears this down over time & they become less effective. The needle sizes & types that I've purposefully chosen to use and carry have the kick-up no higher than level with the shaft's sides. As the needles slide through the fiber, they pull fibers downward with the barbs. None of the barb sticks up (like a head out of a foxhole) to be worn down in passing through fibers that it has not engaged in working.
Fibers may also break if there is any weakness in them, created while they were clothing the sheep: stresses like weather, birthing, food changes, diseases, etc..etc.. They leave a weak spot in the fiber that breaks under stress, in weaving, spinning, wet or dry felting.
Interestingly enough, there are scientists that are researching procedures to create an aritificial 'weakness' in the fiber at a particular point in the shearing year, so that the fleece will be shed with only minor 'tugging' on it. The sheep are usually sheared just before lambing occurs and being set on your rear end and bent every which way is stressful for the ewe, though it's an absolutely necessary process for the sheep.
But to your question: if your fiber is not showing effects of breaking on the outside, it's not breaking inside either.
The fiber will never pull out with any needle because all barbs are only downward facing; withdrawing them leaves everything in place.
I was experiencing one of my favorite processes this weekend: my NFing tutorial in TB&F has been out for about 2 weeks (though my issue has not yet arrived!!!) and I've gotten requests to design a LE of Polar pins/Pendants. I've decided to make 10 and was putting the finishing touches (stabs for shaping) into the Romney base of the first 3 before layering on the Cormo for smoothness.
When the Romney reaches the point that it cannot compress any further, it suddenly feels as light as balsa wood and gives off a decidedly hollow wood sound (not hollow of wool!! that's SOLID). The pitch changes to a lighter thunk thunk thunk sound. I know that I'm 'there' then and the fiber will NOT budge another micrometer!
So - needle away! With good quality fiber & needles, your work only improves with more time spent needling!!
Pasadena, CAInterestingly enough, there are scientists that are researching procedures to create an aritificial 'weakness' in the fiber at a particular point in the shearing year, so that the fleece will be shed with only minor 'tugging' on it.
How interesting! I spent a good time this weekend researching the different types of fibers, wool, alpaca etc. I think I'm just starting to get a grasp of it all!
As far as poking until it feels like balsa wood, I haven't gotten to that point yet, although the piece I'm working on now does seem much harder than the first piece I did. Do you achieve this "sensation" with a coarser needle such as a 38 or not until you start with the 40 or 42?
Thanks again for all your info.
Will be sending you a PM shortly.
Stacey
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)Do you achieve this "sensation" with a coarser needle such as a 38 or not until you start with the 40 or 42?
As I'm using Rombey for these bears (match your fiber to the needle, not choose needles first) I'm still working with the 36. As I'm going to the very fine (micron/size/thickness) fiber, Cormo to cover them with their final skin layering, I'll switch to a 38 T or S to tack it all in place and begin that bonding process, then go down to 40 to go over the whole piece to finish it.
If I had used a finer building breed than Romney, I would go all the way to 42, but the 42 drwas such a small amount of fiber in with the thrust, that they wouldn't have much impact into the Romney.
Speaking of using the thinner needles - 40 & 42 - it is most commonly posted that they are used for detailing the subtler lines and shapings. This is true with only the finer micron sized fiber AND softly needled sculptures.
It is a 'factoid' - something seen in print and accepted as fact, whether it's true or not. There are many needle resellers that have no or little experience with using all of the needle sizes with various fiber breeds and noting the differences and in which situations each are most effective.
I haven't said this online for a while, due to health and teaching assignments keeping me from focusing: I've requested and received hundreds of different breed samples from small flock owners here in the US & Canada, for a comprehensive book I'm s l o w l y writing. In part, this will be a guide to choosing fiber for its inherent qualities of softness, sheen, firmness, crimp, etc... to develop what you need according to the project you're working on.
But back to choosing 40 or 42: the barbs on the smaller-sized needles have correspondingly smaller sized barbs: using them to push in thicker wool fibers is not very effective due to the limited number of thicker fibers that can fit into these smaller barbs.
For any one sending me a SASE, I'll be glad to send them a small bit of my hard needled felting and a bit of the Cormo or similar fiber. Having these 2 pieces in hand is the only way to understand how & why you're unable to create detail with the thinner needles into firmly needled work. You have to get the detail into the base and the top coats then just enhanse what's already there, i.e., creating a smooth coat, taming the frizzies....
Also, someone has recently left a message in my site's Guestbook, asking if I'd be interested in Alpaca. I just saw post this last night and have not yet responded. If anyone would like to find out what she has I'll gladly get the contact info. I don't use alpaca in my work, as it's a very soft fiber and I've found better choices for my style of NFing.
You mention researching online for sources of different fibers. This is how I did it and how I gathered so many different breed fiber samples. You can learn a lot about how the sheep was raised: were the sheep jacketed to keep off extra vm? were they fed from overhead w/o feed falling into the coat? did the flock owner take care to keep the flock free of little varmits that live in the fleece? (Ask me how I know about keps!!). These requests also take me right to the flock owners so that I have fastest and least expensive access to wonderful fibers and the folks that 'raise' these crops for me!
I was just checking on the name of the little bugs - keps - and came across my Fleece Dog by Sinco. Yes, I remembered it correctly. The dogs take perhaps half a day to create. They are extremely softly needled, which make these better for display where they will not be handled.
although the piece I'm working on now does seem much harder than the first piece I did.
Congrats! I'm sure you're now aware of the length of time you've spent on this piece (more!) than on your first? I'm all for leaving Firsts exactly as they are, not going back over them with newly acquired knowledge. They best demonstrate to the NFer how far they've come in improving techniques!
Flying Fur StudiosI also have to say that needle felting is very sturdy. I also felt my objects real hard and I could sit on one all day and it would still hold it's shape and integrity, and although I don't recommend kids playing with them, they are tough enough to withstand that.
I guess washing them would be rather tough, but you don't need to be able to wash a work of art so it doesn't bother me.
But you are right in some respects, people who felt very loosely can give a bad name to felting if the buyer has never felt a rock hard felted piece before.
Pasadena, CA(Ask me how I know about keps!!).
I'm afraid to ask, but I'm going to....
How do you know about Keps? Please tell me they don't live in carded fleece! When I first ordered fleece on Ebay, right around the time I received it, I started getting some sort of itchy bites all over my legs! Probably a coincidence I hope!
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)Well, I've looked on & off since this morning, in all of my computer folders I can think of, for where I put the pix I took of the varmits. I know I saw it about a month ago but it's of course AWOL when you need it.
Basically, it looks like a brown tick and is between 1/4" and 1/2" long. I got a fleece full of them when I was requesting fleece samples 2 - 3 years ago. I still cannot believe that someone would send out sheared fiber like that! But they were all dead - no matter, the whole package got wrapped in several layers of plastic and put out w/the weekly trash. I didn't even want them in my compost heap!
They live only in the fleeces of live sheep, so shearing them removes them from their food supply ('nuff said) but they creeped me out so I didn't save anything from that man's supply.
I did take pix and showed them on several sheep/wool lists I'm on; they identified them and gave me references to look up. For some reason, the online Dictionaries and Google are coming up blank today - very unusual and I've tried several spellings....
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)Well, as soon as I stop looking, I get a brain flash. I'd remembered the name incorrectly - it's Keds not Keps.
Here're some Google links...
http://images.google.com/images?hl=en&q … ages&gbv=2
Don't look at while eating!!!!
Pasadena, CAI looked up Keps and couldn't find anything either.
Ok... that is GROSS! Glad I had already eaten lunch.
Stacey
Charlotte Des Roches DesignsEwww Ugly!!! Poor Sheep....glad the "Keds" you ran into were already expired Bobbie!!!!
I am loving all the wonderful stuff being shared here lately!!!
I am a firm needle felter...and the carding combs really are a necessary prep for the wool...I have seen many pictures of needle felted things that you can tell are not carded first and or are not firm...I poke & poke & poke...endless hours...but I love doing it!
Thanks for all the sharing lately folks...Bobbie you are still the goddess of needle felting to me
Hugs &
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)and the carding combs really are a necessary prep for the wool
Thks Charlotte, you newly-gorgeous Younger Woman!!!
To add another bit of spice to our techniques, the mention of using hand-cards reminds me that I wanted to mention to you all about Combs. For color blending and blending different fibers together, combing beats carding hands down. Of course they always were designed to do different jobs.
Please surf through these sites about Combing.
I use several styles and a few other 'tools' but use care with these, the points are wicked sharp! Worse than needles in many ways because unless you are totally paying attention to where your hands are at all times, you'll brush several of the tips and they'll really hurt!
I was going to describe what they do to your skin & knuckles, but decided that most of you are more focused and less distracted than I am, and would probably never use these needles or tools if I told you how I've 'scraped' myself up on them.... LLLL
Then there're Hackles, and Flickers and various teeth combinations Combs...and drum carders....
You all remember... I'm the Tool Gal!
http://www.joyofhandspinning.com/mini-combs.html
http://www.pacificwoolandfiber.com/how_to_use_louet_m
This is a nice Q&A site:
http://www.knittersreview.com/forum/top … _combs.htm
Charlotte Des Roches DesignsThks Charlotte, you newly-gorgeous Younger Woman!!!
Guess you saw my new picture...lol...thanks Bobbie!!!
Ohhhh I have a drum carder too...a Clemes & Clemes I bought back in the late 70s...I have used my hand carders ...for my needle felting wool...I gotta try the Drum carder...ohhh the blending...ahhh...yummy...
Thanks for all the wonderful info as always Bobbie!!!
Hugs &
Posts: 65Oh these are fascinating answers - and I'm learning so much from them, so thanks to all who have replied here!
Have a Barnett drum carder - I think you can only get them in the UK, but for anyone in the UK who's thinking of buying a drum carder, I'd recommend them! (Just noticed on his website they're no longer being made, but spare parts are and they do come up 2nd hand from time to time....)
http://www.barnettcarders.co.uk/
Mind you for the amounts most people work in, you'd be fine with hand cards. I have some curved Schacht ones:
http://www.schachtspindle.com/products/ … arders.htm
Bearwise, felting's not my thing - although it might be fun to make some welt felted felt for clothes/paw pads at some future point. But you have explained a lot to me and sated my curiosity as I kept looking at NF bears and wondering...
Interesting about merino not being great for NF as the supplier I use most of all sells it specifically for that (and wool's very cheap in the UK, so 'merino' doesn't have the cache it might have elsewhere - even stuff imported from Aus!) I lived in the US a few years ago and was shocked to pay for a pound of wool three times what an entire fleece would cost me here in the UK - in fact, the farmers literally can't give it away, here! So it's a cheap option for us. I do admire the artistry of the NF bears.
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)I'm glad you've had your curiousity sated, Penny! It's a great addendum to traditional (fabric) bear-making and it would be a good idea for everyone to have it in their bag-o-tricks! One of its finest advantages is that it's darn near impossible to engineer some complex curves in fabric (like the darling muzzle on Jane Perala's latest and Wendy's ingenious 'Puddles') but they are SOOO easily executed with the addition of wool.
Charlotte, I hear so much about the Clemes & Clemes line of fiber processors. I want the web for a good deal, though I'll probably never find any of that brand's items.
I got a Deb's Deluxe (Drum) Pat Green first but hated the way that the fiber built up on the lickerin drum. So I sold it and bought a Fricke. The PG made thicker/wider batts but at the price of having to try to keep the smaller drum clear wasn't worth it. I've been told opposite things by very experienced fiber processors: some say to let it build and just continue to feed the fiber in until the large drum is filled and others said to not let even the first fibers embed on the lickerin drum as that will just continue to attract & add more fiber there. I tried both ways and wasn't happy with either.
I do miss the PG as I think the thicker batts lifter off the drum more easily, leaving less at the teeths' bases.
I use Ashford cards, both the standard & the Student size.
My flicker is a curved Strauch. I use it more to lightly lift the remnants of fiber off the drums. I also have the square table mount pad to load and/or use like an opening flick carder but I don't use raw fleece or locks so I don't really need it. When I started in 1000 I didn't know what would be needed or what I'd like so I bought it all within a year.
The hackles I really don't use as the combs are easier. DH could have made the same thing for me by hammering rows of nails into a pc of wood. Very low tech.
I bought a beautiful handmade pair of combs, with the table clamp. It is maple and has the most satiny finish. In these images, you can see that the tightening bolt presses against a copper Canadian penny. Cute idea!
http://www.woolcombs.com/index.php?opti … &Itemid=33
I was remembering the name as being a Scots-type name, but the combs are put away in my teaching luggage and don't have them at hand.
NFers don't really need anything more than hand cards - or a pair of pet grooming brushes if the cards are out of your budget (the time saved using real cards will offset the less expensive option though..)
I just like to have all of the tools for anything I undertake. As I process (re-fluff) fiber for classes and assembling kits, I rationalize all of them!
Charlotte Des Roches DesignsI found this about Clemes & Clemes:
Clemes & Clemes Drum Carders.. Jan. 24,'01
In the past we have sold the Clemes and Clemes Drum Carders. They were an excellent carder, very inexpensive, and tough as the "Hubs of You know Where".
Unfortunately for we spinners, they have chosen to stop regular production of their spinning line, and concentrate on building furniture.
We have not found another brand of carder that we wish to sell.
It was posted on Woolley Designs Web site.
I also have Clemes & Clemes student size hand carders, which I really love.
I have an Ashford Traveler spinning wheel that I got as a kit & finished & assembled myself...I actually get to do some spinning every blue moon...lol
I am using a lot of Merino wool too Penny...long story...and I have been able to get it quite firm, but that's because I have learned a whole lot about needle felting techniques from Bobbie's wonderful posts & her web site:) One of these days I will get to play with other kinds of wool.
Bobbie, I can't believe the difference in how well the wool felts if you fluff it up with the carders!!! There is such a difference in the end result of the piece compaired to when you just pull off a hunk of wool & felt it like you got it.. You can see in photos that where is a big big difference in the look.
I will certainly pull out my drum carder if I have a big project!!!
Hugs &
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)Here is one tiny other tip - well, it's realy large but have been saving it for my book.When I've put out other tips, they've been incorporated into others' work an teaching and by the time this book sees the light of day, it will probably appear that I've incorporated others' work. That's the risk a teacher takes: I want to continue teaching through lists like this and kit sales because it raises the overall knowledge and appreciation for this type of work, but as a slow writer this takes away a bit of my thunder.
At any rate, since working with the wool for 7 years come August, I've learned to not decry Top put-up as I once did. It still boils down to choosing fiber by breeds rather than color, price, put-up...
I was cooking a year or two ago one winter day and standing over a steaming pot for a while. My hair waves & curls with humidity and is rather limp and straight in the winter due to low humidity inside. We also keep an enamel canning pot on low simmer from late in Oct until April 24/7. With the 2 kettles giving out steam - it made me wonder about wool and it's natural curl.
Spinners & weavers on some of my wool lists shot me down when I questioned this, but there's some sort of a stretching (I DO know they do this weighting to the hanks) or 'ironing' process involved which totally straightens out the natural crimp and curl in the production of top (those long, shiny, beguiling ropes of fiber that are so enticing when seen online but are much much harder to work with than the matte-looking fuzzy fibers.)
So I set a cake rack over the top of the moisturizing pot laid on a length of top (don't remember which breed I started with) and put the plastic microwave cover over it to capture the rising steam and to keep the condensation going back into the pot. I was totally surprised and PLEASED to see the top plump up enough to actually raise the lid! I,ve since used much less fiber, even splitting my top fiber in half and allow plenty of room for expansion. After about 20 minutes, I set the rack over or near a floor heat register: it fluffs up even more while gently drying.
This brings nice crimp back to Merino!!
I just bought some wonderful Corriedale top from Bear Dance Crafts in BC (---.com) and have steamed about half of it.
Beautiful fiber, colors and company! No relation!
Now I'll put a © notice on my wording here and save the images for the book!!
Charlotte Des Roches DesignsOhhh wow Bobbie...what wonderful advice...especially living in New Mexico where is it soooo dry... I have naturally wavy curly hair...when I am around a humid invironment too...so I know exactly what you mean..."Rehydrate the wool"!!!! yes yes yes!!! I remember last summer when I spent 3 weeks back east...I could feel my whole body soaking in that humidity!!! :dance: :dance: :dance: :dance:
The good thing besides all those who are already learning from all you advice here, is that you can copy paste to your book transcript :clap: :clap: :clap:
Thank you for all your sharing!!!
Hugs &
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)is that you can copy paste to your book transcript
You crafty woman you! You figured me out!! Actually the sub-plot lessons I put into my classes are rough drafts for some of the book chapters. Computers are great as both storage & editing processors.
My Dad worked for Underwriters' Laboratories for 45 yrs; my folks moved to Golden Colorado a few years before Dad retired. The traffic in Chi was driving him crazy so he took the all-of-CO-&-half-of-WY inspector territory instead. My Mom would totally dry out in CO and always said, as they drove back to IL for visits, she could virtually see & feel her skin plump up by the time she hit Nebraska!! LOL
DD's family & Dad are in Phoenix area; Anne called this morning and it's 121° at their Paradise Valley home. It was 87° when they woke up and were rejoicing for half an hour. We are at 90F w/about 90 - 100% humidity and spotty storms moving through. I'd take her weather any day!
But fiber certainly does dry out where you are in the SW. So much so that I've experienced static electricity when carding fiber in AZ. At least you don't have problems with stored damp fiber going bad!
I'd still take that over having wet undies and the sweat running down all (of my ) gutters.
Oops! Sorry Gentlemen, if you're any of you are reading.. That should be , my 'Glow' is gently spreading.
Charlotte Des Roches Designs
Heh heh heh...Copy Paste is something I learned way back...from hosting in a womens area on AOL for years...and it sure has come in handy since...never a wasted key stroke!!! Ohhh you have that much humidity...here is our recent report:
Current conditions as of 3:53 pm MDT for San Jose, NM
Fair
Feels Like:
95°
Barometer:
30.18 in and falling
Humidity:
5%
Visibility:
10 mi
Dewpoint:
14°
Wind:
SW 7 mph
Sunrise:
5:47 am
Sunset:
8:21 pm
5% humitity...ohhh yes...I am having that problem
having wet undies and the sweat running down all (of my ) gutters.
Oops! Sorry Gentlemen, if you're any of you are reading.. That should be , my 'Glow' is gently spreading.
Would run down to the creek for a quick cooling dip...but now we have severe Thunderstorm warnings coming in...getting really black out there...
Never a problem with moldy anything here...other than bread occasionally...and whatever that green thing hidding in the back of the frig is :crackup: :crackup: :crackup: :crackup:
Dis you know the very first wool I needle felted was Navajo Churro...that was a challenge for a beginner. Here is one of my first bears...all out of Navajo Churro..I joined him with heavy crochet cotton & he is kind of a bobble head...
Hugs &
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)Awwww - very cute! THX for showing him/her. Yep, DEFINITELY N/C!!!!
Charlotte Des Roches DesignsOhhh glad you like him Bobbie...I think a he...since he was one of my first...I should hang on to him...N/C I still have a lot of...and I want to try needle felting some more of it soon...but I think I have to re-hydrate it first!!! eeeehhhhaaaaaa!!!!I find all of this such fun & so challenging!!!
Hugs &
