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Posts: 10Hi all. 
Laura here.
I'm ready to start producing some miniature bears.
I've stocked up on all the materials (I think?) .... mini mohair, vintage long pile, cashmere, ultra-suede, Sassy's super-ion thread and cotter pins & joints, regular "dual duty" thread, different needles, onyx beads, hemostats, tiny scissors, permanent markers, cotton batting, fray-check glue, glass pellets (for weight), aaaand ... I think that's about it.
Anyway, I've read Debbie Kesling's "How to Make Enchanted Miniature Teddy Bears," and I've already made one bear from her "Basic Jointed Bear" pattern a few years ago. It turned out well (minus the loose joints and seed beads for eyes).
I've had a few bad experiences since then. I started working on a bear made of vintage long pile, and was frustrated to find that -- when turning the head -- I could plainly see my stitches. I might not've stitched tight enough, and I was using regular Dual Duty thread. Perhaps that was too thick.
I was also frustrated a few times when the grid backing would split at the edges as I sewed (most often at tiny corners). GAAHHH!!
So, before I start on a new bear, I'm wondering if you miniature (and regular) artists out there could share some advice?
How tightly do you stitch? How do you prevent splits on the grid backing? How do you make your noses so perfect? What do you use to shade the eyes/paws/etc.? How difficult is it to create an "inset" muzzle?
And lastly .. this has nothing to do with miniatures .. but I've seen many "recycled-fur" bears, and was wondering where the fur really comes from (not the actual animal, but supplier)? I'd like to work with fur, but I don't want to support the fur industry by buying pelts from them ... or from other people who work with fur companies.
Thanks a million, and if you have any other advice, please share it!
Hi Laura,
In answer to your fur question , try thrift stores for old coats and ebay. Or, check with a local furrier for 2nd hand coats or offcuts. Be very sure to check that the pelts are dry or crunchy sounding as they will tear when sewing etc. Also, avoid coats with odors. If buying sight unseen just ask lots of questions.
For minis- I've make a few and always pull my stitches tight and try not to get too close to the edge of the fabric. There is another discussion on another post here that answers some of the same questions. Check it out here: http://www.teddy-talk.com/viewtopic.php?id=19145
Posts: 10Thank you so much, Tammy!
I can't believe I haven't seen that thread before after all the lurking I do around here. :crackup:
Chaska, MinnesotaLaura: Tammy found a great thread about some of your questions. Never use cotton thread but use polyester thread instead. It is stronger. An as in the tread Tammy posted, you must pull tight your stitches. Do a back stitch and tug every third stitich. I found that will hide them and not show when turned. I understand people love the Sassy thread for mini's. I have not tried it but all the things I got there have been terrific.
Second I too use recycled mink fur coats. My dad gets them for me at garage sales. E-bay is a good source and thrift stores mentioned by Tammy. If you do bears out of real fur, I would suggest you read the book "Bears with a Past" by Nancy Tillberg. Very good book if you want to do fur bears.
http://www.amazon.com/Teddy-Bears-Past- … 096&sr=1-1
I can say that each mink bear piece is lined with good quality muslin. I do a basting stitch for this and not use glue it on for glue will erode the integrity of the leather. Also if you do mini fur bears, use the collar for this for the mink hairs are shorter and will be less difficult to turn it.
As for shading, I use copic markers and blend with a copic marker blender. You could use fabric mate pens and heat set it. Shading is still intimidating for me so I'll leave advice on this to others....
As for the mini fur splitting, make sure you use fray check. You also may be sewing too close to the edge. When
you cut the mini peices, cut a little bigger to give you room for a seam allowance.
Good luck wiht mini bear making. I just love sewing them when I can.
Lexsomnia BearsAlso for your bears, try a overcast stitch around the edge first to keep the backing from fraying. I am with Michelle on the polyester thread too! Polyester is MUCH stronger IMO and you can also use beeswax to make it EVEN stronger with tiny stitches. HTH!
Posts: 10Thank you too, Alexis and Michelle!
I feel much more confident now ... we'll see how this first bear turns out!
Cat Gabriel CraftsYou'll find the super-ion thread really good. I've sewn all my mini bears using polyester thread for the past 4 years and have just switched to the super-ion thread now, it tangles up less and it's stronger.
Yes, the grid backing can split. IMO there is no need to use fray check, just be careful not to stitch too close to the edge, and do tight little stitches and you should be right.
"How to Make Enchanting Miniature Teddy Bears" is a great book 
It got me started. Best of luck!
Real Deal BearsOne thing I don't think has been mentioned that you may not be aware of , is to use matvhing thread.
Hope to see one of your mini's soon 
Matilda Huggington-beareNancy was selling fur coats on bid4bears the other week.
With that wonderfully fine thread from Sassy's a very fine needle works well.
I didnt realise about the mink collars Michelle. Great tip!! thanks :dance:
Wendy
Chaska, MinnesotaOh Wendy just sparked another tip about needles. Use a really thin needle to reduce the hole size when sewing. I highly recommend the John James Sharps #12. They make them shorter for quilting but I like them a little longer....It is like heaven sewing with this needle. You can buy a package of them with 25 needles in them. You can find them in most quilting shops. I did a quick search on the internet and found a picture of what they look like on e-bay:
Posts: 10Thanks a million, guys! :hug:
