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Posts: 85Maybe I've got my mind mixed up.... but did someone say you could needlefelt on a foam base? I don't mean the one you lean on so you don't stab yourself in the leg, but one that would make up the basic shape (like the stomach) and then you'd cover it in wool?
I'm not sure if that would even work - not that I've tried it.
Otherwise what do people usually use for the 'filling' of their larger needlefelting pieces? Or is it all wool through and through?
Back Road BearsIdeally.... an artist made creature would be wool all the way through.
I've heard of folks using styrofoam 
or soft/cushion foam which is what you felt on. You could make the shape out of wool felt, sew it and stuff it then needleflet over that. As if you were making a teddy bear of mohair. This is a technique used to 'weight' felted creatures where you'd put glass beads or steel shot inside the felt pouch then felt over it. If you don't want to needlefelt the whole piece this, in my opinion, would be the best way to go.
The most impressive needlefelted critter I've seen in person was a rabbit by Kelly Graham (Ted E. Graham Originals - no website yet)... it was at least 18" tall, very firm and full of detail and life. And it was needlefelted wool from the core out - all solid wool which she alone needlefelted. A very impressive and greatly admired and appreciated piece at the show she was at. Won a ribbon and was purchased by a very appreciative couple.
I'm guessing there will be other unique suggestions coming..... can't wait to hear them. It's always interesting to hear of other ways of doing things!
That rabbit is gorgeous!!!
My bears are very small (about 3") and they are solid 100% needlefelted wool. No fillers or base.
When you say you hear of people using styrofoam for a base, I believe you are thinking of what we set on the table when stabbing the wool into itself. You need to felt on something or you will stab the table, your hand or leg.
When I am needlefelting an arm they are only about 1/4 inch in thickness and the needle will come out the back of the arm. That needle needs someplace to go and the styrofoam cube or sponge is the "tabletop."
Posts: 85Wow, that rabbit is incredible!
Oh, I know about the foam for leaning on but I may have mistaken what I thought I read....
But the sewn felt body base sounds like a good idea. I've always wondered how people put in weights in their NF work!
Would shot be best for that? So the needle go through the little balls with less risk of breaking?
The main reason I ask is that I only have a supply of merino wool at the moment and get the feeling that it'll take a much longer time to felt. I know it's not recommended for large creations but it's the only stuff I can find in stores here. Although I hope to find a better selection at a newly discovered store...
Of course you should always take your time and put in the effort on all your creations. *wink*
Posts: 3Hi Kirstie,
I think you might get some use of this thread as it does mention a "form" base.
Back Road BearsKirstie - You could use glass or steel shot..... it depends in part on how heavy you want the critter and how big/small it is. You need less shot than glass to add weight. I prefer glass beads myself.... not sure why though!
Stacey - Thank you for finding that thread.... I thought of it too.
LuxembearsHi Kirste,
I have to agree with the other ladies about using solid wool in your needle felting. I think it makes for a nicer overall quality piece. It's going to take you longer but in the end I think you'll be more satisfied. 
Also, foam deteriorates over time. It dries up and crumbles. I have seen it in vintage bears. It's nasty.
PS...Love your avatar bear. 
Creative Design Studio (RKR4CDS)I'm another 100% Wool Needler, no matter what the size of my project.
There are those who needle over polyester fiberfil, over a wire armature, over styrofoam (yes, the scrinchy-type like packing peanuts, cut to form the approximate inside core shape), over a sewn & stuffed fabric body that gets a top coat of needled-on wool fiber, the softer/rubbery-type upholstery foam described in the post that toilsandtroubles pointed to from last summer, wire sculptures like the base created when decorating a parade float, small 'sacks' of weighting material, and recently, I've seen needling done over both small and large taxidermy shapes: a rigid type of foam, stiffer than styrofoam.
There are pluses and minuses for all of these and more. I prefer to stick with 100% fiber - the same inside as the final, topcoat is, as it's where I find the Artist portion of this for me: thinking through an animals' anatomy and building upon that.
It's neither right nor wrong to build fiber sculptures in any of these ways, but it/they should be fully disclosed when gifting or selling, i.e., there is a lot more leeway in handing a 100% wool sculpture than exists with a wire mesh or Styrofoam core: one may become misshapen and the other may snap inside. These cautions would become important in knowing how to handle the piece on display.
So the needle goes through the little balls with less risk of breaking?
The same slow stroking care must be used whether needling around a wire or a small sack of heavy weighted beading. The needles are likely to bend or snap at any of its weaker reduction points when coming in contact with an unyielding solid material. Breaking off a needle inside one of the baggies is even more imperative to find and retrieve it. The needle tips will migrate to a certain degree is any finer, 'backing' out in solid wool because of the barb direction encourages moving in that direction. But if left in a slightly looser 'container' of weighting materials, it's unknown where it will emerge from.
Those little blighters are sharp!!
Non-sterile fiber and non-stainless steel needles: I'd make sure my inoculations were up-to-date and dig out that needle tip.
Covering the slices into the sculpture is extremely easy; recovering from an inadvertent puncture is not so easy.
This leads away from the original queston on using other materials as a base for needling over; so just one last note on Merino - please search the internet for some of the more easily worked fibers, Kirstie! There are literally thousands just waiting for our needles!
These comments were in a knit shop owner's weekly newsletter/journal emailed yesterday:
What I also discovered is that I love wool roving and wool fiber of all types. The colors and textures fascinate me as do the seemingly endless possibilities that a length of wool roving present. Now, I could needlefelt them, but given my limited amount of time it may not be practical since like anyone I enjoy the satisfaction of finishing a project. Besides, what I really love is the feel of Merino wool roving, which anyone who has ever tried to hand needlefelt will tell you is an exercise in futility. The fibers are so fine that it’s a lengthy, next-to-impossible task to hand felt Merino even if you use a multi needle tool. An embellishing machine seems to make the most sense to my time limited, over-achieving, pedantic self so that’s what I’m going get.
This lady had been speaking of Wet felting, a wholly different approach, which actually makes Merino a bit easier to control (static electricity is taken out of the equation!). She'll be able to design 2-D work on the embellisher but not 3-D, free-standing sculpture.
I could not agree more on Merino, though, given that I build my miniature work out of the same materials from start to finish. The luscious softness of Merino fiber is lost when needled and its length also works against creating miniatures. There are so very many more sheep breeds that produce fibers of equal micron-size, but the shorter lengths and ease-of-working-with with far outweigh using Merino.
If Merino's the only fiber you've got then use it, but it can still be blended (combed) with other breed fibers so you have an easier to use material.
For others considering Merino, don't be beguiled by claims of softness, luscious colors and feel, or by the shiny ropes of roving/slyver displayed (it's actually in a 'Top' form and not as easily worked as a matte-looking batt form): for the most part, those adjectives and descriptions were written for the older, traditional wet felting methods and for knitting. What 'works' for one discipline does not equate to the same for both techniques (wet & dry).
If you have other fiber breeds you can blend with it, it has been my experience that Combing rather than Carding is a quicker process for blending different colors and different types of fibers.
By all means, try everything you can get your hands on—that's the only way you'll learn what works best for your style of needling,
Most of all - have Fun & be enthused!!!
Posts: 85Thanks for all the advice guys!
I have to agree that the foam mold doesn't really do it for me as art either. All the fun of sculpting it into shape yourself is taken away! And I can imagine a foam block inside would deteriorate faster, particularly if it's been stabbed and broken up by the needle.
Looks like wool is the way to go.
As for merino, yes I saw your post about it not being as good as it's proclaimed to be and that other types could be soft and far better to work with (if I could just fine it again and make a note of the breed's names). I'll use up what I have bought already, waste not want not, and then make an effort to check out this new wool shop I found. It might take longer to get to but I think what I'll save on fustration and wasted effort by using the right wool will make up for it. You'd think in Oz I'd have no trouble finding wool! 
p.s. Thanks Judi!
Stay tuned into TT- you will find many answers, tips, and everything else about needle felting the good and the bad.
Doing a felted bear's face with Judi Paul opened a whole new dimension in my bear making.
Lynette
Rufnut Teddy'sKirstie, polyfibre as a core is a good base for a stomach. I have used and seen other use weights such as smooth stones wrapped in polyfibre as the base.
There are plenty of suppliers in Aust to find wool. Ebay is great and the main suppliers here in Australia, Gerrys, Beary Cheap, Bear Essence all sell wool roving. I also noticed Spotlight does now as well. Also try you local wool mills for roving or wool store.
Look out for NZ Corriedale, Merino which are best for beginning with.
Good luck
