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kbonsall Kim-Bee Bears
Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,645

I have had a lot of trouble stitching up my noses..... Are there any "tricks" you gals use?  They, for me, are the hardest thing to do.... my hands hurt so bad today from stitching a nose on my newest bear... How do you gals do such perfect noses?  any help is appreciated! my aching hands thank you!

plushkinbear BEAR ME SHOOTKA
Vladivostok, RUSSIA
Posts: 2,139

Oh, Kim I do understand you!
(I hope it's not my bear who makes your fingers hurt) :whistle:

The Red one - Gretel' (she is in bears for sale section) has really big nose. I can not do anything on the next day after stitching such noses.....................Fingers hurt soooo much.

It's one of the reason I start to make Fimo noses. :thumbsup:

But if I do plain nose not punchy one I never had such hurting problem.

By the way do you use any tools? I do. Don't know how do you call it in English but I guess girls will help.  bear_wub

kbonsall Kim-Bee Bears
Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,645

I use a longer needle (a doll needle) and I use embroidery floss..... The first few passes with a needle are fine  but after a while, i actually need to get out my needle nose plyers to pull the needle through... there has to be an easier way.  I do fimo clay noses too and love them but I am trying to achieve a "Shelli" nose or a "Gina" nose but it isnt working :(

It isnt your bear that is doing it... LOL...

shantell Apple Dumpling Designs
Willamette Valley Oregon
Posts: 3,128

Kim,

After my head chopping disaster...remember that!!!  I registered for Ebearz U class on noses...I think it's like $10...takes about 30 minutes to actually go through...you can print it out for later reference.  It really helped me.  I think it's on of her only open enrollment classes where you don't have to wait.

I also use my pliers especially if my hands get tired or I've been doing alot of hand sewing...I also don't close up the head until after my nose is on that way I can make some adjustments if I need to...not sure where I read that tip.  I think maybe Laura Lynn said that somewhere on here.

Shantell

jenny Three O'clock Bears
warwickshire uk
Posts: 4,413
Website

Well....I stuff the nose with woodwool...which in itself neatened my noses as it's so easy to sew through. I pluck the nose area with tweezers (for me, just trimming it down still leaves stubble which can stick through the embroidery)...then I paint the area with a fabric glue (I use Hi-tack). When that is  dry I mark the shape of the nose using pins and  a light reactive marker pen..The mark disappears after a while. Then I sew the nose using two or three layers of embroidery, being careful not to cross the threads (like Ghostbusters!!!)

It works for me..................and I don't get sore fingers.

kbonsall Kim-Bee Bears
Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,645

I just dont understand what I am "doing wrong" when there are sooo many perfect noses!

shantell Apple Dumpling Designs
Willamette Valley Oregon
Posts: 3,128

I pluck the nose area also...and mark it with a pen just inside the line I'm going to sew...I don't do the whole felt thing....didn't work for me.

Jenny, what does the glue do?

All Bear All Bear by Paula
Kent
Posts: 5,162
Website

Wordsworthnose.jpgMaybe it's the type of filler you use Kim?  I've noticed that some fillers can be very difficult to get a needle through.  I use quite a 'crunchy' polyester and have no problems with the needle going through.  I always use a thimble ... couldn't manage without one of those!  Other than that, I don't know what to suggest.  Could it be time for a new nose sewing needle perhaps?  Maybe yours has become a little blunt?

I use a 3" long needle, which is fairly thick but not too thick and doesn't bend.  To get the nose straight, I always start in the centre and work out to one side and then back to the centre and out to the other side.  It's important to have the weave in the gusset very straight, so that you can use it as a guide for your needle.  The main trick for a good nose is to keep even tension as you sew each separate stitch flat next to its neighbouring stitch.  Also, keep an eye very very carefully on your stitch length as you work - it's easy to start with long stitches and gradually get shorter!

My preferred method of sewing, is to trim the nose area, then embroider once over the area.  Once I'm happy with the shape, I then stitch a second layer in exactly the same way, over the top and finish off with a horizontal stitch across the top and bottom of the vertical stitches, before using the rest of the thread to form the down stitches and mouth.

Take your time, sew in daylight and most of all, relax whilst sewing!  bear_happy

plushkinbear BEAR ME SHOOTKA
Vladivostok, RUSSIA
Posts: 2,139
kbonsall wrote:

I just dont understand what I am "doing wrong" when there are sooo many perfect noses!

:hug: :hug: :hug: :/
Kim, don't worry! After 10-20 years of bearmaking our noses would be perfect! bear_grin bear_grin

jenny Three O'clock Bears
warwickshire uk
Posts: 4,413
Website

The theory is that if there are any fly away bits the glue holds them flat ( this is another Ted Menten tip by the way) he suggests sewing while the glue is still tacky so it holds the thread in place...I don't do that in case I have to unpick....in which case you get gloopy mess...But it does work...I don't get 'sprouts' these days... and it just gives you a good even surface on which to sew.

kbonsall Kim-Bee Bears
Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,645

I was always afraid to PLUCK my bears!  What if I go Pluck crazy like I did with my eyebrows a few months ago?  bear_laugh  I always use black so then I can color any "stray hairs" that are poking out with my handy dandy Prisma Colored Marker and then I lacquer the nose so any "imperfections" can be covered... but I really want to learn to do it the "right" way...

kbonsall Kim-Bee Bears
Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,645

Thank you gals... so when you do your nose how do you do it? Do you go in through the top (or bottom) and come out the bottom and then go through the top again? is it a big "loop"  I have a few books and they all make it look sooo easy LOL  I really stuff my noses hard with polyfil, is that part of my problem?

All Bear All Bear by Paula
Kent
Posts: 5,162
Website
jenny wrote:

The theory is that if there are any fly away bits the glue holds them flat ( this is another Ted Menten tip by the way) he suggests sewing while the glue is still tacky so it holds the thread in place...I don't do that in case I have to unpick....in which case you get gloopy mess...But it does work...I don't get 'sprouts' these days... and it just gives you a good even surface on which to sew.

I don't use glue.  I just slide my needle under the first layer of stitching to flatten any little hairs that may have been missed in the trimming.

All Bear All Bear by Paula
Kent
Posts: 5,162
Website
kbonsall wrote:

Thank you gals... so when you do your nose how do you do it? Do you go in through the top (or bottom) and come out the bottom and then go through the top again? is it a big "loop"  I have a few books and they all make it look sooo easy LOL  I really stuff my noses hard with polyfil, is that part of my problem?

I always go in through the bottom and come out at the top Kim.  It is a big loop as you say.  I work with the head gripped sideways between my knees (!) and hold it at eye level frequently to check how progress is going!  I always complete the head, including nose sewing, before I assemble the bear. 

I know my sister always stitches her noses from top to bottom and doesn't work with the head held sideways between her knees ... maybe I work the way I do because it suits my left-handedness!

kbonsall Kim-Bee Bears
Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,645

I think I need to go home tonight and make some "test" heads bear_original  Thank you gals for your HELPFUL suggestions~

What would I do without you all!  :hug:

Helena Bears-a-Bruin!
Macclesfield, UK
Posts: 1,291

Paula, what you are saying makes perfect sense to me, but then I'm left-handed too!!!

I can't really add to what's already been said Kim. Plus, I'm no expert on sewing noses since I use the clay ones a lot. I think it probably just takes practice to develop a techinique that's right for each of us.

Great thread!  :dance:

jenny Three O'clock Bears
warwickshire uk
Posts: 4,413
Website

The thing is Kim that everyone does it differently...and you just have to keep trying out things till you find what works for you. I work from the bottom of the nose to the top and I start in the middle and do the left had side first, then back to the middle to do the right side...so I always work from the centre outwards....but there will be lots of people out there that think that's wrong and that their way is better...and it is for them because that's what they feel comfortable with.

I shape my noses , ie to give the impression of nostrils (only slightly) which is why I find using the glue helps maintain the shape....and I like the effect that the glue has on the thread...even when it's dry it holds the thread slightly in place. It's not about doing it wrong...or right....

plushkinbear BEAR ME SHOOTKA
Vladivostok, RUSSIA
Posts: 2,139

Paula, you make great bears! awesome and BIG. That's why you could work with the head held sideways between your knees ...  If Kim will do that with her minis.................... bear_shocked bear_shocked
I hold my heads (no........bear's head) and stitch from bottom to top with my right hand.
If I use thick felt under embroidering I sew it on with few stitches. I try not to use glue but if I do I take the gel type.  Then I go from right to left sides. Then from bottom to top. It's hard to embroider in the sides of the big noses. I do sides first then cover with the finishing layer from bottom to top......

Daphne Back Road Bears
Laconia, NH USA
Posts: 6,568

Hi Kim,
I think making small noses as you have to do for your small bears can be adding to your challenge. I just can't do things that small! Anyway....

Be sure you aren't using too big of a needle.
I've often switched to a curved needle as I've gotten to the the corners of my nose.

I do the felt method, glue in place after trimming the fur down. For me it eliminates as lumps and bumps from the seams where gusset and sides meet. Also a good guide and eliminates the worry of stray fibers poking through and having to get out the marker.

I also work from one side out, then the other side, trying my best to match stitch for stitch.
And I too get out the pliers about half way through as my fingers get sore.

Oh, and I go in at the top of the nose, out the bottom.

I think techniques will differ depending on the shape of your nose.
Paula's beautifully perfect noses are rectangular in shape. Stitch length doesn't really vary.
If you are doing an upside down triangle then your stitching technique may need to be a bit different as you taper up each side, causing need for smaller stitches which can get hard and that's when I reach for the pliers or the curved needle.

SueAnn Past Time Bears
Double Oak, Texas
Posts: 21,919

SueAnn Help Advisor, Banner Sponsor

Kim, did you read the threads in the "Nose Finishes" title of the Reference Library forum?  They might be of help, too.

kbonsall Kim-Bee Bears
Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,645

No I didnt but I will check it out... Thanks SueAnn!!!  :hug:

Pipa UK
Posts: 971

Hi Kim, I come out at the top and go in at the bottom, i do 1 stitch in the very center of the nose first and then work my way out sideways, i don't do one side first then the other i alternate so i do a center stitch..stitch to the left..1 to the right..1 to the left and so on until i get the right size nose i want :)

i also found Mohair is also a heck of alot easier to sew through than synthetic !!

gotobedbears Posts: 3,177

Hi Kim,
Noses are a pain in the bum are'nt they? I work from he middle out to the left then middle to right then work over the whole nose again. I don't like to make my noses to prominent for some reason.

I stuff the noses with wood shavings rather than wood wool/excelsior as i find it too lumpy - the wood shavings are quite long and curly though, my hubby is a carpenter so i get to use all the shavings.

I don't close the neck of the bear until after the nose is done Kim, this way if the snout becomes a little pushed to one side with the force of the stitching i can straighten it up again with the handle of a wooden spoon (always knew that wooden spoon would come in handy for something)!

Penny  :hug:

Winney Winneybears and Friends
White City, Oregon
Posts: 1,103

Kim, I think the biggest thing I learned that helped my noses a lot  is to stuff real firm with fine excelsier ( wood wool ) for about an inch and use the finest needle I can get away with...I also glue each stitch flat as I go...using the tiny Elmers pen white glue...I put a tiny drop at the top of each stitch before smooting it down...Oh yes I too make a nose shape like Paulas....Winney

kbonsall Kim-Bee Bears
Pennsylvania
Posts: 5,645
Pipa wrote:

i also found Mohair is also a heck of alot easier to sew through than synthetic !!

Maybe this is what my problem is!  The bear I am working on is synthetic!  I bet it does make a difference, the backing is tighter woven and stiffer on synthetic.... Wow, never realized it!

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