Skip to main content

Banner Sponsors

No Monkey Biz - Domain name registration, hosting
Intercal Trading Group - Your mohair supplier

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website

Hi everyone,

I am new to this and this site and have recently decided to try my fist mink bear creation. I know (researched) most of the ins and out with using mink.....muslin lining, larger openings for turning etc. What I cant seem to find is what size glovers needle is best for working with mink and when everyone says use larger stiches, what exactly do you mean by "larger"? 1/8" back stich??? OK, so while I am at it, I guess I have many questions, not just one. Do you use upholstery thread or artificial sinew to facial sculpt the face on mink bears as well as any socket joints?? If so, do you sculpt through only the pollyfill or do you take passing stiches through parts fo the pelt leather to get the indention to stay in place??

I found a copy of Nancy Tillberg's book on Ebay for 5 bucks and it should be here this week.  Just thought someone here could give me a heads up.

I have to also mention, as one of the few guys on this site, how humbled I am by the absolutly gorgeous work you all produce and I am proud to be a member and visit here every day.

Sincerely,
Anthony bear_original

Michelle Helen Chaska, Minnesota
Posts: 2,897

Hi Anthony. Are you hand sewing a smaller mink bear or using the machine for a larger one? If you are using the machine, make sure you swap out your normal needle for leather needed compatible to your machine. I hand sew my smaller mink bears with leather needles I buy in a pack at the fabric store. I think they have various sizes in them. I never really though about the size of needle I use for hand stitching. I just use which ever one I grab from the package.

Use heavier threat when sewing them like upholstery thread. Because the fur is so long, you don't have to take real tiny stitches but be sure to pull the stitches tight though. I do a back stitch with my hand sewing.

For facial sculpting, you could use upholstery thread or artificial sinew. If you use the sinew, there is less slipping and it is easier for the sculpted areas to remain in place.

I do have to say, make sure you line each of your fur pieces with good quality muslin. Never glue to the leather. Hand baste the muslin to the bear piece. Glue can erode the leather in time and the integrity of the seams will be compromised.  You want your beautiful bear to be around for a long time don't you? Just my two cents.

I love Nancy Tillberg’s book. That will give you a lot of guidance with your real fur bears.

Hope this helps.

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website

Hi Michelle,

Thanks so much for your reply! I hand sew all my bears. Just trying to work out all the details with using real mink. Nancy was kind enough to email me as well.

Thanks so much for all your help and guidance.

Anthony bear_grin

Michelle Helen Chaska, Minnesota
Posts: 2,897

you are welcome. Post a picture of you bear when you finish him.

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website

1336646797_10_polymer_clay_foot_pad_and_toes.jpg1336646498_12_ears_and_polymer_clay_nose.jpg

Hi everyone,

I have been slow in finishing my first real fur bear.  Does anyone know what the best is to use for shading on real mink? I have copic markers but am not happy with the effects when I try them out on cut offs that I saved from the fur. I also tried dry brushing with oil paint and it does not seem to take very well to mink fur. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Anthony :teddybear:1336646858_9_polymer_clay_toes.jpg

dangerbears Dangerbears
Wisconsin
Posts: 6,021
Website

I don't know about shading, but just wanted to say that I think your bear is gorgeous! (I especially like those feetsies ;))

Becky

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website

Wow, thanks so much Becky! That is a great compliment from such a great artist like yourself!! I just make them because I love them and have never sold any or entered a show.  I am actaully planning on entering my very first show in the novice class here in South Africa on July 28th.

desertmountainbear desertmountainbear
Bloomsburg, PA
Posts: 5,399

Hi Anthony,  your bear is really beautiful.  I love the feet too.  Although I do not sew with real fur, I do use leather for the footpads.  I use a #10 glovers needle.  It is very small and thin.  They are brittle and break easy, but glide through leather like butter leaving a very small hole.

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website

Thanks so much Joanne!!  bear_original

kellydean k e l l y d e a n & c o m p a n y
Narrowsburg, New York
Posts: 718
Website

I don't use leather needles anymore.  I use a new #8 klasse needle for leather sewing and applique work on my machine.  if you use a good thread (ie not Coats and Clark and a decent needle ie. not a Singer) you shouldn't have any problem.  for hand sewing, I always use a dritz or Gold Eye #7 quilt basting needle.  they are 3" long but very thin and tapered, and pierce the leather easily without cutting it, which is essentially what a leather needle does, and I think results in a stronger seam

Klasse has a new titanium needle that lasts forever, I rarely have to use larger than a #10, even on the heaviest furs and fabrics, but Shmetz & Inspira needles are good choice also

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website
kellydean wrote:

I don't use leather needles anymore.  I use a new #8 klasse needle for leather sewing and applique work on my machine.  if you use a good thread (ie not Coats and Clark and a decent needle ie. not a Singer) you shouldn't have any problem.  for hand sewing, I always use a dritz or Gold Eye #7 quilt basting needle.  they are 3" long but very thin and tapered, and pierce the leather easily without cutting it, which is essentially what a leather needle does, and I think results in a stronger seam

Klasse has a new titanium needle that lasts forever, I rarely have to use larger than a #10, even on the heaviest furs and fabrics, but Shmetz & Inspira needles are good choice also


Wow, thank you so much Mr. Dean for your tips! This is exactly what I needed to know. If I may gush like a school child for a minute......I AM SUCH A HUGE FAN OF YOUR WORK!!!  For me, you are the absolute greatest at what you do and I would give my teeth to have a summer to spend with you in your shop. Thanks so much again.

gugu"s teddies gugu;s teddies
durban
Posts: 203

Hi Anthony
Glad you posted i bought a peice of Mink at The Teddie Fair in CT was going to ask all the qustions you have posted
I know nothing about the July Teddie Show Can you please pm me with the details
Good Luck your Bear looks Great

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website
gugu"s teddies wrote:

Hi Anthony
Glad you posted i bought a peice of Mink at The Teddie Fair in CT was going to ask all the qustions you have posted
I know nothing about the July Teddie Show Can you please pm me with the details
Good Luck your Bear looks Great

Hi Paula,

Please check your PM and email when you get a chance. I forwarded you the entry info for the Johhanesburg show in July.

thanks,
Anthony

Michelle Helen Chaska, Minnesota
Posts: 2,897

Very nice work on your bear Anthony!! As for shading, copic markers fade in time so I would not use those. Faber-Castell artist pens are great for shading and do not fade on the fur. You can buy them at any art supply store.

They come in all kinds of colors which you can buy seperately or in packs. I have the black, various shades of  grey, sepia and sanguine. They come in fine, medium and brush points.  Here is what they look like:

http://artgraphic.fabercastell.com/prod … D1388&pg=2

Also, can you tell me what the nose of your bear is made of? Is that leather or clay?

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website
Michelle Helen wrote:

Very nice work on your bear Anthony!! As for shading, copic markers fade in time so I would not use those. Faber-Castell artist pens are great for shading and do not fade on the fur. You can buy them at any art supply store.

They come in all kinds of colors which you can buy seperately or in packs. I have the black, various shades of  grey, sepia and sanguine. They come in fine, medium and brush points.  Here is what they look like:

http://artgraphic.fabercastell.com/prod … D1388&pg=2

Also, can you tell me what the nose of your bear is made of? Is that leather or clay?

Hi Michelle,
Thank you so much for the great shading tips. I didnt know that about copics. I will get some of the artist pens you mentioned then. For my noses I use a polymer clay made by Filani here in South Africa. It is just like the low bake sculpey you get there. I use sculpting tools to shape and texture and  then just follow the baking instructions on the package. I do the same for the paw pads and toes.

Thanks again!
Anthony

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website
desertmountainbear wrote:

Hi Anthony,  your bear is really beautiful.  I love the feet too.  Although I do not sew with real fur, I do use leather for the footpads.  I use a #10 glovers needle.  It is very small and thin.  They are brittle and break easy, but glide through leather like butter leaving a very small hole.

Joanne, I just had to tell you that your bears are incredible! So many talented artist here! I would love to spend time with you and Kelly Dean and learn.

desertmountainbear desertmountainbear
Bloomsburg, PA
Posts: 5,399

Thank you Anthony,  I keep a blog with some tutorials of the bear making techniques I use.  If you go there and look on the left hand sidebar you will see the links.  Almost as good as spending time.

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website

Well, I still need to stich his septum and mouth, but for the most part he is done. bear_original

1337585931_13_almost_done_waiting_for_a_mouth.jpg
1337585959_14_hi.jpg
1337585983_15_i_can_stand_on_my_own.jpg
1337586002_16_some_one_pick_me_up_please.jpg

desertmountainbear desertmountainbear
Bloomsburg, PA
Posts: 5,399

He turned out beautifully.  You have done a wonderful job trimming his face, it is adorable.

Joanne

dangerbears Dangerbears
Wisconsin
Posts: 6,021
Website

Absolutely adorable, and I agree with Joanne - you did a brilliant job with the scissor-sculpting! bear_flower

Becky

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website

Thanks so much Joanne and Becky!! That means so much coming from you both.
bear_grin

tcfolk TC Folk Originals
Tempe, AZ
Posts: 1,553

Beautiful little bear!  Nice job!   bear_thumb

KIMBEARLYS KIMBEARLYS ORIGINALS
SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
Posts: 21
Website

He is just wonderful.  Great face, body, pads, nose..... 1st bear in fur? 
Have a super day!
Kimbearlys

Crown Critters Crown Critters
Dallas, Texas
Posts: 841
Website
KIMBEARLYS wrote:

He is just wonderful.  Great face, body, pads, nose..... 1st bear in fur? 
Have a super day!
Kimbearlys

Thank you so much!! :)

Yep, this was my first sttempt at real fur.  Am working on my second one right now and modifying my pattern some to make a larger version with a double neck joint and posable limbs. I am considering entering my first show and contest in late July here in S.A.

Board footer

Powered by FluxBB

Banner Sponsors


Tedsby - Handmade teddy bears and other cute stuffed animals. Hundreds of teddy artists from all over the world and thousands of OOAK creations.
Johnna's Mohair Store - Specializing in hand dyed mohair and alpaca