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For artists and collectors sponsored by Intercal...your mohair supplier and Johnna's Mohair Store
Posts: 110I want to shade parts of the dog I'm making to make it closer resemble the real thing, so I've bought some Promarkers. I've had a go with them on a scrap offcut, it was quite easy to do, and although it went a bit scrunchy, after brushing it it softened up. However, if I rub a fingertip over it, it's leaving staining behind, which is no good as the dog isn't designed to just sit in a glass case, never touched. It's meant to be like doggy version of a reborn, needs to be handled with care, but still holdeable/ cuddly/ play around with without it falling to bits 
. Am I missing something out with the markers? Do you have to heat them with a hairdryer or something to set them, and if so,is it safe to heat mohair? Or will it dry out itself in a few days?
Past Time BearsI've used Prismacolor markers and like them the best. They have a blender marker that takes the sharp edge off the colors and makes shading easier. The best prices I've found are at www.carpediemstore.com.
I've used promakers before and didn't have a problem with them drying/rubbing off? Maybe you put too much on at once I find it is best to build up the colour gradually sometimes the 'fur' needs priming to take the colour better. Try wetting (not too much) the area you want to colour with lukewarm water with a TINY amount of shampoo and then again with just water to remove any soap residue and then leave to dry completely and then start with the colouring. I got this tip from a post via Jenny Johnson and found it very useful.
I have to say though I find promakers hard to control and a blender essential.
michelle
Posts: 110I have tried hushing a hairdryer after colourings makes no difference, and I tried your tip of wetting the mohair first, and although it's better. It's still staining my hands if I pet or ruffle the fur after. There must be some way to stop this, I can't sell someone a £300 dog that after holding, your hands look like you've been scrunching up newspaper!! Help!!
EDIT: I've also tried watercolour pencils, their even worse, and watercolours which aren't sticking.
TC Folk OriginalsLike Sue Ann I use Prismacolor markers as well as the pencils and I have no problems with them drying or the color rubbing off. Blenders are essential! Watercolor in any form is not permanent and will bleed. Mohair is a natural fiber and can be washed, but make sure the backing is washable. I always take a scrap of the fur and measure it, then wash it and dry it, and then match it to the original measurement. I've never used promarkers, but I have had this problem with other brands and I've tried every manner of heat setting (hair dryers, low oven, dry iron, clothes dryer) and the color still rubbed off. Good luck!
Posts: 110Nope still not working 
. I've tried using the blender pen, and whilst it's better, it's still rubbing off on my hands. If you make a teddy bear and shade it, do you get staining on your hands after holding it? What are prismacolor markers? Seeing as the Promarkers aren't working, I'm thinking of trying copic markers, but their double the price and I'm concerned they won't work either. I've been down to a craft store who tried a permanent black marker and it still won't stop staining. Even a piece I've let air dry for 2-3 weeks is still coming off when touched. Just to clarify, the marker is staying on the mohair, but it's staining if you touch it.
desertmountainbearI do remember seeing a simular issue on the Guild of Master BearCrafters site. Someone may have been KJ Lyons recommended using a light spray of a gloss acrylic sealer over the fur. Maybe it would help this puppy. I have never had this issue with Prismacolor markers either. The investment in a different marker may be worth all the frustration. Maybe an airbrush would also help.
SueAnn, I just went to the site you recommended, what good prices. I will buy there next time.
Posts: 110Well, after trying several methods and getting nowhere, I finally contacted the company who sold me the mohair to start with, thinks perhaps it had been treated with something that was stopping it absorb dyes. They told me that Promarkers aren the same as copics as their not really designed for fabric, and not to use them on mohair. So now I'm waiting for some copics instead and will see how those go!
Posts: 110Got my copics today and tried them out. They are much much better, but there's still some staining left with them. I just can't understand why I'm having such a problem, could it be because the colors I'm using are a dark grey and black? Or am I not doing something right? I get the marker, color a patch of scrap mohair as if I was coloring a picture then leave it to dry. This is starting to bug a bit, the dog has to be finished by Sunday night, if I can't find a way to stop this staining, I'm giving up on the shading and it can go as it is. I just don't get why I'm having such a problem when everyone else's seems fine .
I'm not a great expert with pro-markers as I prefer oils to do my fur shading. My experience with pro markers is that you have to put just tiny bits of very gentle shading and build patiently. Also use your blender to soften the 'edge' of the colour. And you could try blowing air with your hair dryer set on low heat. Also brush the fur often between shading, to avoid the fur clumping with bits of colour. I guess the main thing is to remember that you are shading, and not painting. From what you are writing that might be the problem, that you are putting too much at once.
Good luck with your new puppy, it would be nice to see the end result, if you posted a picture maybe?
XXX
I don't want to burst your bubble with the coptic makers but I actually switched to using promakers instead after finding that they can fade after a year or so. This was on felt foot pads the mohair fared better but I'm afraid I lost confidence to use them after that. The trouble I have with promakers (which ironically - given your problems) is that they are very permanent and can not be faded or blended once applied. Coptics are a lot easier to use and will blend in a much softer way. So when I do use promakers it is only on very tiny areas. For shading I now use top quality artist acrylic paint (they are actually rated on the back of each tube as to how light fast they are) and build up slowly as again if you put too much on at once you can't get it off plus like Francesca said you need to brush out any excess dried paint between coats.
Good luck with your next project and don't be disheartened you might not appreciate it just now but you have learnt a ton of stuff that will be great for the future. 
michelle
I've also been trying out shading using markers, Spectrum Noir in my case. I've found that they make the fur feel kind of sticky. So I tried 'polishing' the fur with a paper towel and a lot of colour comes off on the paper, so hopefully is less on the fur. I guess it's to be expected when you're adding an ink to the fibres of the fur, they must feel different. I need to look into this idea of oils, as that just doesn't make sense to me from what I know of oil paints. I imagine the fur clogged thick with it and stinking of oil paint!
I notice that Michelle mentions acrylic paints, not oils.
Becky
I don't entirely understand this either. I've used acrylic paints, for painting metal figures, for painting pictures, and basically it's plastic. I will have to experiment with it, to see how to make it work not leaving a coat of plastic on each hair of the fur. I have plenty to practise with, so I shall start with that and try oils another time. Also I've seen coloured pencils mentioned, and pastels, and I can't quite see how that stays on the hairs, but I shall try that out too
Here's a thread with ideas on oils and other media for shading: http://www.teddy-talk.com/viewtopic.php?id=611
On the topic of pastels, there are many kinds of course, but I often use the ones that are basically colored pencils without the wood (not oily or chalky pastels) along with a brush and hot water (basically as you'd use watercolor paints). They can also be used just by rubbing them on the fur, but control isn't great that way.
Becky
Jozi BearsMy local bear shop started stocking these paint pots. They are made for fabric and leather and other porous surfaces. I haven't used it yet. Only got them this week. They come with a felt tip applicator pen. Its a liquid so you have to use very little. Will let you all know the result. Has anyone else used these?
Jozi BearsReport back:
These ink pots work like a CHARM!!!
Very happy with the results. I used them in my airbrush - undiluted.
I tested it on a scrap piece of mohair - I was able to do light and dark shading and pinpoint detail without any hassle (keep in mind I use a double action air gun and a mini compressor and have extensive airbrush experience through my day job)
Once done, the ink did transfer to my hands - the bottle states you have to heat set. So I Fetched my hair dryer and put it on hell-high (that thing gets super hot) and blasted the piece for about a minute in 20 second bursts (otherwise my fingers burn). Waited for the fabric to cool.... EUREKA - no transfer on my hands, took a white tissue and rubbed vigorously over the ink - no transfer!!!! *happy dance*
Excuse me while I run off to the shop to get one in every colour :)
Tx
