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For artists and collectors sponsored by Intercal...your mohair supplier and Johnna's Mohair Store
What do you use for shading your bears?
I use oil paints, using a VERY dry brush technique. I load the tinest bit of paint onto a very stiff brush (the shape of the brush tip depends on where I'll be using it and varies from round to flat to fan) and then wipe, wipe, WIPE it dry on a paper towel until only the barest hint of color remains. Only THEN it is ready to be brushed onto mohair and backing.
Use a very stiff, large brush afterward to comb through and remove any extra paint. You get a soft finish that looks totally "unpainted" and instead, as if the color is a part of the fur itself!
I also recently discovered the artist quality Prismacolor pencils. They work best on light to medium colors, and when used on the backing itself -- I haven't personally had much success getting pencils to color mohair, as in the "hair" part.
The pencils are great for use around noses, in corners and crevises, and circling eyes. I find the "blender" pencil works well to smudge and blend the finest of lines to a softer finish, with ease.
Baird'sBearsShelli,
I want to try oils. I had an antique set of my daughter's Reeves, but didn't like them.
I recently bought a selection of Old Holland colors on sale--have you ever heard of these? The art guy said this brand was one of the best for subtle effects, and that the white left behind more pigment than did other brands of white.
I also got boar's hair brushes, which seemed the stiffest. What do you use?
When you dry-brush, can you layer colors right away, or do you have to wait for each to dry?
Eileen
Past Time BearsI shade with permanent fabric markers and blender or with Berol Prismacolor colored pencils.
I also got boar's hair brushes, which seemed the stiffest. What do you use?
When you dry-brush, can you layer colors right away, or do you have to wait for each to dry?
Eileen
I am embarrassed to admit that I have no idea what type of brushes I use; I have zero formal training in art and don't make much note of that kind of detail. The ol' brain only holds so much information, ya know. ;)
Instead, my process at the art store is to browse the brush aisle for brushes marked "oil" or "any" for paint type, and which suit my needs size- and stiffness-wise. I do this using the high-tech and sophisticated method of picking each brush up and ruffling my finger gently thru the end of it.
You can layer colors right away if you want them to BLEND. If you want to literally layer one color, in pure form, over the other, drying is necessary first. I never work that way as blending usually gets me where I want to be.
I have often layered light (cream, white, beige) over dark (deep brown and black) and gotten a lightened result, even when painting one layer IMMEDIATELY after the other (or a close approximation thereof.)
Since you are using so very little paint, drying doesn't take long at all. I haven't measured it precisely but I know that an hour later you can still rub some paint off (especially on footpads, which are usually felt or leather) but that after a day, I've never been able to rub anything off at all. That's significantly less time than an oil PAINTING would take to dry; I've never done one but my understanding is that, if the paint is thick enough, you can still be waiting for the "all clear" on a painting a full year from the date of completion!
Hope this helps.
Baird'sBearsInstead, my process at the art store is to browse the brush aisle for brushes marked "oil" or "any" for paint type, and which suit my needs size- and stiffness-wise. I do this using the high-tech and sophisticated method of picking each brush up and ruffling my finger gently thru the end of it.
That's exactly what I did! I told the kids running the store what I wanted the paint and brushes for, and they got very excited and very helpful--I guess I'm not the typical art student. I tried for the seniors' discount, but I"m not old enough yet :(
Your info on the actual painting is very helpful. I wouldn't have known how to begin, or what to expect. You and/or Judi mentioned starting with light colors first, then building to dark. I'm assuming that I can go right down to the pelt/backing with the oils (if I want to)?
Eileen
I'm assuming that I can go right down to the pelt/backing with the oils (if I want to)?
Eileen
You bring up a good point, Eileen. I need to backtrack a little bit and log the important disclaimer that I've never used oil paints on pelts -- on real animal skin that actually has fur sticking out of it (I have used it on suede and leather footpads, tho) -- so I can't speak personally to the way oils work, should be brushed on, etc., with pelts per se. I'll be making my first real fur bear sometime in the next month or so and will let you know but I may only have limited news to report since the fur I'm using is deep, glossy, black, and won't show paint effects nearly as well as a lighter one might have.
As for mohair, tho... yes, you can go right down to the backing. In fact, I sometimes purposely avoid the hairs and go for ONLY the backing with my oils -- for example, around the eyes. Then, when you use that stiff brush, you can pull some of the pigment thru the hairs, for a very nice and soft effect.
LuxembearsEileen, There's always more than one way to skin a cat, but I like to start with lighter colors and work to black allowing the lighter colors to cover more area for a nice gradation effect.
Airbrushing gives the softest effects but a piant brush also gives great effects too. It all dedends on what look you want for the end result. Airbrushing does require equipment and can a bit costly to start and it also requires know-how and lots of practice. I really love the effects of airbrushing.
As far as painting on real fur, high quality acrylics work great. You can also use inks. I have not used oil but my educated guess would be it would be fine. If you want to be extra sure you can always try it on a small piece or fur first and see how it "sticks".
A really good piece of properly tanned fur is a lot tougher and can withstand more than you might think. WHere the idea that fur is so fragile comes from aged and old, or not-well-taken-care-of fur. Like a leather coat, the leather on the fur can dry rot if not taken care of.
I believe in playing and experimenting...you never know what you might discover in yourself!
