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Kim-Bee BearsI always mark my limbs according to my patterns of where joints are suppose to go - like where the arm gets attached to the body.... Sometimes even when i use those markings, they still seem "off"... are there any suggestions on a better way to match up where body parts are to be attached???
Deedle BearsSuch a good question Kim, I am just finishing my "swap" bear and this is the 1st large(r) bear I have done. I am pretty happy with it but I do think I have an issue with the placement of the arms... even with marking the "spot". I'll be anxious to hear what everyone has to say!
Kim-Bee BearsAnd the funny thing is, I dont have this problem with my smaller bears.. just the big ones... hmm.... I dunno if maybe the pile is throwing it off to or maybe the synthetic has a bit of strech to it and it is being thrown off by the stuffing??
I don't mark my positions on the fabric as I make the bear. I wait until I have the head attached to the body and then I get out my tape measure and my awl.
I decide where I want the first arm to sit and then measure down the seam from the neck joint, taking care to make sure the fabric isn't rumpled anywhere. Once I've taken the measurement I use my awl to make a small hole in the fabric for insertion of the first arm. Then I joint that arm to the bear.
Once I've done the first arm, I repeat the process for arm 2 - taking care to ensure it is the same distance horizontally from the seam as the first arm, as well as the same distance from neck to arm placement.
To attach my legs I do the same sort of thing, only this time I use a heavy duty, long needle and insert it in the centre of where the body pieces meet at the base of the body. The needle is inserted on the outside of the body, through to the inside. When my needle is in place, I hook my fabric tape measure over the end securing it in place with my thumb, where the needle meets the centre of the bear. Then, with the bear turned upside down at this point, I measure along the side seam until I find the spot I want to position my leg. I usually mark that spot by inserting my awl and then repeat the process with the other leg position, before I insert either of the legs. Once the awls are in place, I know where my legs need to be and can get on with the final assembling.
I find that once you get used to a particular size of bear and joints, you soon remember how many centimetres you want to measure for your positioning each time and you will begin to get a feel for what will work and what won't for your designs.
Hope that helps a little! :)
Incidentally, it goes without saying that all the limbs need to be stuffed so that they match their partner - one overstuffed thigh for example, will make ted list to the side when seated and he may suffer from 'wobbly bottom' syndrome! ;)
Stuffing the body definitely has a bearing on whether or not ted's joints will be thrown askew. I would say that it's always worth unstuffing and starting again if something isn't sitting properly. If you get a good stuffing technique going and you have measured your limb positions carefully, you should find everything balances nicely. I usually stuff the body as equally as possible ... ie., if I'm putting a bit of stuffing into the left of the bear, I then put an equal amount of stuffing into the same position on the right of the bear and I do this until the bear is completely stuffed.
Posts: 3,540Are they getting shifted on the body, or the limbs? I think with the mohair and synthetics you've got the potential for the fabric to stretch, so yes, the markings can and do shift. On the limbs, I always take the disc on my hardboard discs and place them in the upper arm or leg so that the disc rests just under the curved seam. Then I take my pen and mark the center. This may have shifted considerably since I placed my first pattern mark for the hole.
On the body, once I've gotten the body sewn up, I hold it with the tummy facing me, and I look at the marks I've made for jointing the arms and legs. I check to see that they're even from the darts I've made at the top and bottom. I often times use my thumbs or fingers beside the mark, and under the dart or beside it so I can 'see' better if they've shifted. Basically your just shooting for eveness, so you don't end up with one side higher than the other.
I find if I line the stretchy fabric with muslin, it keeps the stretching to a minimum. Its not so much that you sewed it funny (although it can sometimes shift during sewing), but during stuffing, things can get shifted a lot! I hope this helps 
Like Paula I don't mark the fabric.I attch the head hold it up by the head and hold it flat.I push an awl right through both body bits and place the arms in loosely.I hold the wee soul in all different angles and attach securely if they match.Then I spear him through for the legs and do the same a again.Like Kim I find wee souls so mch easier than biggies.
Diane xxxx
Estelles canal bears and Tod TeddiesI do pretty much the same as Nettie and Paula, head onto body hold up and stab through from one side to the other :hug:
Flying Fur StudiosWow, interesting!
I always pre-mark my joint holes. I guess I just learned that from the artists patterns I would use when I started out.
Paula, i LOVE your method. I'm going to do that from now on. Sounds much better. Thanks
Pandy Potter BearsI'm a monkey for premarking holes, finding they are not right, moving the limbs, but not changing my pattern!
Wow, interesting!
I always pre-mark my joint holes. I guess I just learned that from the artists patterns I would use when I started out.Paula, i LOVE your method. I'm going to do that from now on. Sounds much better. Thanks
Glad it was helpful Heather. Good luck!
Kim-Bee BearsOh thank you gals!!!!! I think maybe the synthetic had something to do with it!!! I shall try your method from now on! I couldnt figure out how an arm could be so off when I marked beforehand! I am so glad I asked! THANK YOU THANK YOU!!! :hug: :hug:
Back Road BearsI never mark the joint holes on my pattern pieces!
I do my arms similar to Paula. In fact exactly as Paula does.
My legs I do first for some unknown reason (any one have a good reason why I SHOULDN'T? I'm really curious if there is a disadvantage!). When I do the legs it's mostly 'eye-balling-it' more than anything else. I typically be sure that, if I set the leg against the body so the bear is in a sitting position, there is a good 1/2" up from the bottom of the body to the bottom of the leg so that when the body is stuffed the legs don't turn outward too much. Then I eye-ball-it again from front to back, typically placing the joint hole just behind the side seam or dart. I do ONE LEG HOLE AT A TIME! I've learned the hard way over and over that going straight thru both sides of the body with my awl rarely results in even placement of the joints. No matter how careful I am to have the sides lined up, flat, etc. I eye-ball the second leg to ensure it's even to the first. Before I tighten the joints all the way I hold the bear upright letting the limbs fall naturally and check for even placement.
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Daphne & Her Eye Balls
Kim-Bee BearsThank you Daphne... I should have asked this question sooner! I never thought that me marking my pieces before hand could cause placment issues!
fribbles, ltd...I always stick the arms and legs on with stickpins first, and manuever 'em around 'til they're "right" whether the bear is sitting down, standing up, etc. Didn't ever know any other way!
Amelia
