Are these the markers you guys are referring to? http://www.currys.com/markers/prodinfo1 … 3&catID=26
Are they permanent? Lightfast?
Those are the ones and yes, they are permanent. As far as being lightfast . . . I started using them in 1999, and a bear that I gave my husband that year still has its shading. So, I guess it will last for at least 6 years - and they are non-toxic. This bear isn't in direct light, but then most bears won't be (I hope!).
P.S. Don't order them from that site . . . did you notice that they don't ship to the US?
Oh Deb, love your little girl, she looks like she was unjustly sat in the corner for something she never did. (probably the gollies did it)
Aww little teddikins, I can relate, I always got in troube for stuff I never did too...of course, I can't blame them, given al the stuff I did do I was a logical suspect!
I'm going to guess that the permanent fabric markers you can find at most craft stores (Hobby Lobby, Michael's, etc.) will perform much the same way. Not sure that they will have a blender, but you can always get the Prismacolor blender. Or maybe the Copic pens work in the same manner and they DO have a blender.
Deb, I am not a fan of Copic markers for airbrushing. They are gunky and leave a residue feeling.
I use high quality acrylic paints. They are colorfast and do need to be heat set. I have just airbrushed an entire piece...I will share when he is done....and it feels like nothing has been done to him when I pet him.
Airbrushing does need to be applied properly, in very fine layers, otherwise it could gunk up and not feel nice. I like my airbrushing to blend into my work.
As far as types /brands of paints..I like Liqutex concentrated colors. These need to be reduced with water and in some cases, like when using Raw Umber, it needs to be strained. Some pigments tend to be gritty, like the brown shades.
Createx and Dyna Flow paints are designed for airbrushing. I still water them down because I like to work fine.
The Prisma color Markers are also very nice. They won't give you the same effect as as airbrushing but for many effects they work very well. I prefer Prisma over Copic and would never use Copic for airbrushing. Copic, I have found, work okay for hand tinting but are a bit heavy. Also, Shelli's method of dry brsuhing with oils works beautifully too.
Thank you Judi! I have some Liquitex, Golden, and some DynaFlo acrylics here. I'll start practicing. I did try them once on some mohair for practice, but color faded. However, I did NOT heat set. I did do in the very fine layers tho. Heat set every layer? I tried Shelli's oil paint suggestion and loved it, except that I used my stenciling oils which are already on the very dry side. They worked great. I also picked up a Prismacolor marker to try.
im in the process of doing my very first bear, and im learning fast through trial and error where trapunto pads and claws are concerned, i was wondering about shading and this might seem like a really stupid question but if you use the crayons,pens,markers etc do u use them on the fabric itself (underneath the fur) or on the top where the fur lies? Im only thinking of shading around the mouth area.
Also where claws are concerned....would you recommend adding the fabric stabilizer (working with faux fur) AFTER the claws have been set?
When I shade a bear I use the markers (I use prisma) on the fur itself, prismacolor has a blender pen that helps to blend in the color, this to me is a must.
Claws, I make them twice as long as I need them with points and both ends. I use a small awl to make a hole deep into the the spot where I want it to be. I place a drop of superglue gel on top of that hole, and bury the claw into it. The claw grabs the glue on the way in. Makes them very secure. When working with faux fur, if I has a knitted back, it is lined at the beginning. If you bury the claws into the stuffing, they won't move.
thanks joanne, that really has helped a lot, my brain was beginning to go to mush on this. I have been trying to add the claws after sewing the legs together hahhaha, and going in from the non fur side, never thought of doing it your way but your way DOES make a great deal of sense, also thanx for the info on the shading, i havent attempted that as yet, seems a bit daunting but i might practise first i think