I can think of two possibilities. First, sewing the head gusset in place perfectly is always a challenge. In the library here, you can probably find many archives in the category "Muzzles."
When I sew in the head gusset, I first whip-stitch the very center of the gusset (which I've marked) at the neck seam, and also at the two points where the eyes will go. Then before I sew the sides, I sew just the tip of the muzzle - probably six or eight stitches. Paula Carter explains it very well (with photos) in this blog post: http://allbear.blogspot.com/2010/01/tut … usset.html
The second possibility is that when you stuff the muzzle, the stuffing isn't quite even, which might cause the "chin" to shift a little to one side.
I hope this helps.
Following a tip on here a while ago, I clip the curves, then open the seam out and tack it in place with bright coloured thread (contrasting to the fur so it's easy to spot) and then stuff. I can then unpick the tacking stitches when stuffed, and it all sits smoothly
Great tip, thanks Katy - I'll try it.
Boy can I sympathize. Getting the bear nose straight has been the biggest challenge for me. I have particular difficulty with this. It seems I am destined to struggle everytime I make a bear head. I've tried about every technique suggested but still haven't found 'my' solution. The latest fix I've come up with is to eliminate the darn center seam beneathe the nose altogether and have combined both sides of the face into a single pattern piece. I've only made one bear head this way but it worked well and not having the bulk of the seam beneathe the nose allowed me to place the separation line exactly center with needle sculpting after the head was sewn and stuffed. For some reason, this worked well for me.
I also resorted to open mouth design to help me keep the muzzles straight and centered on the faces and use an inset muzzle design to concentrate my adjustments to the face rather than the entire head.
I guess you could say, the final design of the head was to compensate for my 'weaknesses'...
. How do you fix the stuffing bit if it is uneven??
I use a long soft sculpture needle to move the stuffing around where I need it to go. This works great, but I do not know about straightening seams.
I have found the whole head including the seam below the nose much straighter if I just sew the gusset in by hand.
One patternpiece, can't even think of how you did that Can we see this bear ?
I'm not having the problem every time,only sometimes, and it frustrate me a lot
Maybe the fabric have something to do with it too ?
The latest fix I've come up with is to eliminate the darn center seam beneathe the nose altogether and have combined both sides of the face into a single pattern piece. I've only made one bear head this way but it worked well and not having the bulk of the seam beneathe the nose allowed me to place the separation line exactly center with needle sculpting after the head was sewn and stuffed. For some reason, this worked well for me. "
just take your side piece and flip it over at the center seam without moving that center seam on the fabric...trace the second side...you have a single piece which looks like butterfly wings in my case...remember I have an additional lower jaw piece because I make open mouthed bears....
I sew my gussett down from either side eye points and up from the nose by hand...then reinforce with the machine (I can do that because my bears are so big.)
Another reason it could be off centre apart from the 2 mentioned of crooked gusset seam and cross stuffing is uneven side heads. If you have placed your side heads on the fabric with the nap of the backing uneven your weft and warp could be pullin unevenly.
Many many artists are so worried about the nap of the fur that they forget about the nap of the backing fabric...the ONE place it will show up if you have your warp and weft uneven is the 'septum' seam.
Remember in weaving a fabric the weft and warp threads have different tensions and pull....if your side heads are set so that one has more weft and the other more warp, the result is simple to visualise.
Absolutely right! I'm so glad you made that point.
I use fashion synthetics with knitted backings...So I have to line my heads. Currently I use a strong felt...no warp or weft to worry about...so that I can prevent stretching and distortion. I pretreat the backing on my synthetic before I sew too ...that way while I am working with it I minimize stretching the shape of the pattern. I sew the head together first, then piece by piece attach the backing felt to each section of the head along and over the seam lines by hand...
Tedius as it is, this system works for me and has overcome my problems with 'wonky' muzzels and off center nose seams.
ive tried the wax on the nose and rubbinng it in for ages but my noses DO NOT Shine like i see the Noses of Teddies in the Magazines
I wonder if some of the shiny noses you see in magazines are achieved with glue or varnish rather than with wax. There are many bear makers who use these things to "seal" embroidered noses and get them to shine. (Personally, I don't like the hard feel of such noses. Waxing gives a more natural effect, I think.)