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Astrup BearsHi.
Sometimes when I sew a bear head, the middle seam under the nose, its just a bit off center.
I have never figured out why this happens, do you know why ?
I'm talking of the seam under the nose, hope you know what I'm talking about 
Hi Lisa,
I can think of two possibilities. First, sewing the head gusset in place perfectly is always a challenge. In the library here, you can probably find many archives in the category "Muzzles."
When I sew in the head gusset, I first whip-stitch the very center of the gusset (which I've marked) at the neck seam, and also at the two points where the eyes will go. Then before I sew the sides, I sew just the tip of the muzzle - probably six or eight stitches. Paula Carter explains it very well (with photos) in this blog post: http://allbear.blogspot.com/2010/01/tut … usset.html
The second possibility is that when you stuff the muzzle, the stuffing isn't quite even, which might cause the "chin" to shift a little to one side.
I hope this helps.
Becky
Wagga WaggaThis also happens to me. I have sewed the nose bit by hand so it is straight. How do you fix the stuffing bit if it is uneven??
How do you fix the stuffing bit if it is uneven??
The only thing I'd know how to do is un-stuff and re-stuff. (I've un-done and re-done many, many steps of the bear-making process. 
)
Becky
My heads are exclusively sewn by hand - no machine, so I can adjust every stitch I do, try it out this way and I'm sure you will have all streight like you want it to have
Astrup BearsHi.
Thanks a lot for all info, its nice to have so many diffrent into to try out.
In between I have tryed to spilt the centerseam and press it down before stuffing, that helped a lot 
The Littlest ThistleFollowing a tip on here a while ago, I clip the curves, then open the seam out and tack it in place with bright coloured thread (contrasting to the fur so it's easy to spot) and then stuff. I can then unpick the tacking stitches when stuffed, and it all sits smoothly
Astrup BearsFollowing a tip on here a while ago, I clip the curves, then open the seam out and tack it in place with bright coloured thread (contrasting to the fur so it's easy to spot) and then stuff. I can then unpick the tacking stitches when stuffed, and it all sits smoothly
Great tip, thanks Katy - I'll try it.
Faux Paw BearsHi Lisa,
Boy can I sympathize. Getting the bear nose straight has been the biggest challenge for me. I have particular difficulty with this. It seems I am destined to struggle everytime I make a bear head. I've tried about every technique suggested but still haven't found 'my' solution. The latest fix I've come up with is to eliminate the darn center seam beneathe the nose altogether and have combined both sides of the face into a single pattern piece. I've only made one bear head this way but it worked well and not having the bulk of the seam beneathe the nose allowed me to place the separation line exactly center with needle sculpting after the head was sewn and stuffed. For some reason, this worked well for me.
I also resorted to open mouth design to help me keep the muzzles straight and centered on the faces and use an inset muzzle design to concentrate my adjustments to the face rather than the entire head.
I guess you could say, the final design of the head was to compensate for my 'weaknesses'...
Pat
desertmountainbear. How do you fix the stuffing bit if it is uneven??
I use a long soft sculpture needle to move the stuffing around where I need it to go. This works great, but I do not know about straightening seams.
I have found the whole head including the seam below the nose much straighter if I just sew the gusset in by hand.
Joanne
I used to have that problem too until I learned this trick from a fellow artist - don't close the neck until the nose is done! Then you can shift the stuffing around all you like!
Astrup BearsHi Pat.
One patternpiece, can't even think of how you did that 
Can we see this bear ?
I'm not having the problem every time,only sometimes, and it frustrate me a lot 
Maybe the fabric have something to do with it too ?
"
The latest fix I've come up with is to eliminate the darn center seam beneathe the nose altogether and have combined both sides of the face into a single pattern piece. I've only made one bear head this way but it worked well and not having the bulk of the seam beneathe the nose allowed me to place the separation line exactly center with needle sculpting after the head was sewn and stuffed. For some reason, this worked well for me. "
Faux Paw BearsLisa,
just take your side piece and flip it over at the center seam without moving that center seam on the fabric...trace the second side...you have a single piece which looks like butterfly wings in my case...remember I have an additional lower jaw piece because I make open mouthed bears....
I sew my gussett down from either side eye points and up from the nose by hand...then reinforce with the machine (I can do that because my bears are so big.)
Strange BearsAnother reason it could be off centre apart from the 2 mentioned of crooked gusset seam and cross stuffing is uneven side heads. If you have placed your side heads on the fabric with the nap of the backing uneven your weft and warp could be pullin unevenly.
Many many artists are so worried about the nap of the fur that they forget about the nap of the backing fabric...the ONE place it will show up if you have your warp and weft uneven is the 'septum' seam.
Remember in weaving a fabric the weft and warp threads have different tensions and pull....if your side heads are set so that one has more weft and the other more warp, the result is simple to visualise.
Faux Paw BearsSandra,
Absolutely right! I'm so glad you made that point.
I use fashion synthetics with knitted backings...So I have to line my heads. Currently I use a strong felt...no warp or weft to worry about...so that I can prevent stretching and distortion. I pretreat the backing on my synthetic before I sew too ...that way while I am working with it I minimize stretching the shape of the pattern. I sew the head together first, then piece by piece attach the backing felt to each section of the head along and over the seam lines by hand...
Tedius as it is, this system works for me and has overcome my problems with 'wonky' muzzels and off center nose seams.
Pat
Astrup Bearsthere is much to try out, thank you 
Wagga WaggaWow, so much to think about. Thanks for the help.
gugu;s teddieshi Ladies im pretty new to teddy makein and need some help ive tried the wax on the nose and rubbinng it in for ages but my noses DO NOT Shine like i see the Noses of Teddies in the Magazines any tips Please
Hava sunny day
desertmountainbearWhat are yo rubbing it with. I use brown paper lunch bag wrapped around a popsicle stick.
Joanne
gugu;s teddiesHi There thanks for idea ill try that a lady also tld me to use varnish or clear nail polish, how many layers of wax do you put on perhaps im puttying to many layers Have a great teddy day regards Paula
desertmountainbearSometimes I use plenty. I don't think it is that there is too much. I make sure I do not touch it for a whole day after applying. Let it get good and hard first.
ive tried the wax on the nose and rubbinng it in for ages but my noses DO NOT Shine like i see the Noses of Teddies in the Magazines
I wonder if some of the shiny noses you see in magazines are achieved with glue or varnish rather than with wax. There are many bear makers who use these things to "seal" embroidered noses and get them to shine. (Personally, I don't like the hard feel of such noses. Waxing gives a more natural effect, I think.)
Becky
Belper, DerbyshireAre you using too much wax at once perhaps? I think the trick is to build it up in layers.
cheers,
G
desertmountainbearI also think I would hesitate before putting varnish on wax. i would try it out on some cheap store bought bear first. I would worry it would peel or crack.
Joanne
I wasn't thinking of putting varnish over wax - just over the embroidery thread. (I don't know what all people use, but I tried Mod Podge myself, and I didn't like the result - a shiny, but hard nose.)
Becky
